. ..Lake Phoksundo, Phoksumdo........ “The Jewel Of Dolpo” ....

A brief information about Dolpo and Phoksundo....before starting our journey towards "The Jewel Of Dolpo"...........

Kagbeni, where I got the idea of this route a year before I got the idea on last year's trek to Mustang (2008) when I saw the small trail branching off near Kagbeni, leading up a mountain flank and soon disappearing. My curiosity grew even more by answers to my questions - 'it goes to Dolpo; very difficult and far away; no tourists'...........

The quest for distinctively unique single destination with unbounded diversity is accomplished with the extremely exceptional trip to DOLPA, the divine Mountain Kingdom at the foot of the Mighty Himalayas runs parallel to the image of the Shangri-la of Nepal in many aspects. It lures adventurers with promises of untouched natural splendour with immense fantasies. At the edge of the Tibetan Plateau in the Himalayan rain shadow lies Dolpo - the legendary hidden land closed for years to trekkers. Dolpo remains a truly isolated corner of Nepal: time has stood still here for centuries as the inhabitants of Tibetan stock continue to live, cultivate and trade the way they have done since time immemorial.

Lake Phoksundo is at such an high altitude and the water is so cold that no aquatic life is seen.Phoksundo Lake, the deepest lake in Nepal, offers stunning beauty. Considered sacrosanct by the Dopla locals, it is praised for its aquamarine greenish blue color.

Lake Phoksundo, Phoksumdo, or “the Jewel of Dolpo” as locals refer to it, is a high altitude lake famous for its aqua marine color. The lake is too high to support plant or animal life and retains a pristine and crystalline appearance. Formed by a landslade over 30,000 years ago, lake Phoksundo is over 150 km deep and has a 167m waterfall at its southern end. Surrounding the lake are pristine forest full of some of the world’s rarest wildlife, including the Tibetan Snow Leopard. Villages that sit near the lake are also home to an ancient blend of Tibetan.

Beautiful view of the Turquoise Phoksundo Lake.

Dolpo is known for it’s pristine beauty and rugged charm, where one can still have opportunity to meet the wonderful nomadic people with their amazing life style almost untouched and unexplored. The stunning Himalayas offer an endless variety of fascinating landscapes, incredible cultures of great people who are of Tibetan descent, follow the pre-Buddhist Bon religion. The thrilling views, the breathtaking harsh environment and mystical traditions of mythical Dolpo is well captured and immortalized in “Caravan-The Himalayas”, a feature film by Eric Valli ”.....Some Posters from Caravan....The Himalayas...to know more about the region itself..

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At an altitude of 5,000 meters in the Himalayas in the remote village of Dolpo, the elder leader Tinlé has just lost his oldest son who mysteriously died in the mountains. Accusing the young Karma for the death of his son, Tinlé refuses to let Karma lead the yak caravan with the salt loads. In this arid land, salt is sacred and a precious commodity to be exchanged for essential grains grown in the valley.

High Altitude Traverse in Nepal's North

The Himalayas offer an endless variety of landscapes, cultures and great people. This unbounded diversity makes it a destination you can visit over and over again. It even becomes more interesting and fascinating with every time you return. After trekking in central Nepal a few times I am now eager to explore its west, a relatively untouched area north of the Dhaulagiri massif between Dolpo and Mustang.

Map Of Dolpo Region....

According to legends the hidden land Be-yül was discovered by Padmasambhava, a famous Indian scholar who travelled through the Himalayas to spread Buddha?s teachings. It is assumed that people of Tibetan origin settled down in the area two thousand years ago. They had cultural and economical ties with Tibet and the Lo kingdom in the east. The kings of Lo governed it until the end of the 18th century. When the Gorkhas took control over Nepal, Dolpo gained larger autonomy because the influence of Mustang was reduced. But due to the isolation it suffered culturally and most likely also economically. When modern Nepal was founded, only little changed in Dolpo because the government in Kathmandu was far away and not very interested in the region.

Terrace Fields in Juphal.starting point is Juphal, a small village with an even smaller airstrip.

China's occupation of Tibet in the late 1950s made life even more difficult. All of sudden the winter grazing grounds were closed off, husbandry became very difficult because the meadows in the valleys in the south were not as good. The Khampas, armed Tibetan resistance fighters, settled down on the Nepali side of the border and launched skirmishes on the Chinese invaders from there. There was was not enough fertile land to supply all the people and their animals which were suddenly living in the area.

By Phoksundo Khola

We started at the end of August and had some expected post-monsoon rain, but this was rewarded by green fields and lush vegetation. Since it takes about 23 walking days (6-8 hours a day), make sure you are in good shape. You will spend most of the time above 3'500 metres and cross six passes above 5'000 m, but technically the hiking is easy.Upper Dolpo is difficult to reach and very arid. Few people live in the harsh climate. They are farmers, traders and shepherds - often all in one because this is the only way to survive. Agriculture on a large scale is impossible because fertile land is scarce. In the southern parts of Dolpo one finds a varied vegetation, farmers can plant a large variety of fruit, vegetables and grain. This contrast will probably have an effect on the culture and the people themselves, and the different landscapes will make our trip even more interesting.

This trek is divided in 5 segments in terms of writing...........

* Part 1: Nepalganj to Ringmo
* Part 2: Ringmo to Shey
* Part 3: Shey to Do Tarap
* Part 4: Do Tarap to Charkha
* Part 5: Charkha to Sangda
* Part 6: Sangda to Jomosom

Kids @ Ringmo......

Please note: I tried to make the description of the following three weeks as accurate and correct as possible. I received the information from locals, our guides or out of books. Undoubtedly, there will still be some mistakes for which I apologize.

Thanks to Jamie McGuinness , who helped preparations and found an experienced and relieable trekking agency.

Also many thanks to Dawa, Pasang, Meena, Sonam and the rest of the crew from Sherpa Society for running the whole trek perfectly.

WE STARTED FROM NEPALGANJ TOWARDS RINGMO AND THE JEWEL OF DOLPO......

Satopanth Tal (Lake):..... Route to Heaven.....From Mana To Satopanth...The Vivacious Path..

                            Journey on the way of Pandavas
DAY 3....

We Started our final journey from Chakrateerth to Satopanth Tal(Lake).Clouds removed from the sky and weather became so beautiful.Balakun was amazing @ Sun rise,stunning... was also very bright.Looking like a 24 karet Gold peak...We were so much tempted to have as much as possible photos of both Balakun and Chaukhamba...
 

Balakun Just After Sunrise....

When we walked from Chakratirtha to Satopant Tal,It was Ekadasi, when it is believed that Lord Narayana Himself bathes in these sacred waters. Climbing diagonally up a rocky sharply inclined wall face, it took us about an hour to reach the top of the first ridge. Climbing down the precipice-like slope was very dangerous. From here the entire region of sheer glacier was visible.

Surrounded by lofty snow peaks, Chakratirtha, a well shaped circular green meadow, around 2 kms in length and 1.5 kms in breath, was a relief amidst the harsh environment.

We watched crevasses in the valley. It was impossible to make out the way through the valley. Our able guide, Devendra Rana, along with his porters, worked a way down to the moraine or small rocks lying over old glacier. This work was done with an ice axe. The path was constructed diagonally by the wall of the ridge and required careful maneuvering. 
 

It took us about an hour to reach the top of this ridge.

Again we saw some footprints which some claimed are the rare snow leopard believed to be occasionally sighted in these regions.

Pug Marks Of A Snow Leopard...

From here till Satopanth Tal we had to walk over the unseen glacier. At some places the glaciers was visible as the layer of boulders had moved away due to avalanches. We followed the route by the markings previously laid down of rocks placed vertically one on top of the other, at various places over the glacier.
 

path was constructed diagonally by the wall of the ridge.

On our way to Satopanth lake we saw huge rock structures..Devendra showed us those structures and said it is called as Bhim Bar or Bhima's Gada...At Bhimbar, the rock pillar commemorates Bhima’s release from earthly life....

It Is called Bhim bar Or Bhima's Gada...

The Path On Which We Walked..

We moved up slowly and steadily, one by one, negotiating dangerous crevasses. At last we saw the welcome flag at the top of a ridge. Below the flag on the other side of the ridge is Satopanth Tal. By this time we were all exhausted. Scarcity of oxygen had slowed us. The last 1 km was much tougher, as we were moving through avalanche zone. 
 

Walking On Satopanth Glacier....Most dangerous Path...

Ultimately, one by one we came up at the bottom of the last ridge. Here the rocky soil was very slippery and the gradient of the ridge was also steep. Everyone kept calm and we succeeded in reaching the top of the ridge at 12 noon.On The way we saw an old lady walking towards Mana...We were utmost surprised to see an old lady walking alone on this path...For some time we were speechless...
 

An Old lady Alone Walking Towards Mana.

Walking On The Last Gradient Of The Ridge Was Also Steep.

Devendra is trying to have a short cut by crossing this small rivulet...

After three hours of hard trekking on the treacherous glacier we reached under the last ridge and could see the red flag flying on top of the ridge indicating the site of the lake. We simply dragged ourselves to the top.
 

Red flag flying on top of the ridge indicating the site of the lake

Here we had a magnificent view of the Lake: Satopanth Tal. It's a triangular shaped lake with each side about 1 Km. long. The crystal clear water had a greenish colour and all around the lake stands mighty Himalayan snow peaks. From left to right, they are Mt. Neelkanth (21638 feet), Mt. Satopanth (23,206 feet), Mt. Swargarohini (20507 feet), Mt. Chaukhamba I (23413 feet) and Mt. Balakun (20040 feet). 
 

clouded chaukhamba massif rising above satopant lake.As the name suggests Chaukhamba, means four pillars. The four peaks are situated at an average elevation of 7138 metres, 7088 metres, 6995 metres and 6854 metres respectively above mean sea level. .

The first thing that struck me squarely was the strange ethereal ambience of the lake. It had such calm and soothing effect; probably because it’s an achievement of hard labour or may be the legends, ultimately got me! But I had to admit, our suicidal efforts were amply rewarded. The perfectly triangle shaped lake at the base of the snow crested Chaukhamba I peak, surrounded by lofty mountains reflected an azure sky. A small green field in its eastern side, dotted with alpine flowers accentuates the harsh surrounding. As I feasted on the spellbinding scenery, for the first time I became aware of the complete lack of sound around it. It’s eerie! Except the sound of occasional avalanches that were coming down the Chaukhamba peak, as it is already mid-day and the snow on the peak has started to melt, coming down as huge avalanches, the silence was all encompassing. 
 

We ran into him on the bank of Satopanth Tal (14300 fts) - a small triangular, almost inaccessible, glacial lake in the hidden depths of the Himalayas. Indeed, it is the right place for a vow of silence. According to the Skanda Purana, this silence is guarded by Bramha, Vishnu & Maheshwar - the holy trinity who sit in meditation on the vertices of the triangular lake. No-one dares to break this silence.

As we came down at the bank of the lake we saw the reflection of Mt. Chaukhamba on the water. It was beautiful beyond expression. We offered worship, both silent personal prayers and puja to Lord Bramha, Vishnu & Maheshwar, breaking a coconut . Soon after the snowfall which began at 1:30 p.m. continued till late midnight.At Satopanth Tal there is a room which had been constructed by a pilgrim from the South. This room is still used by visiting sadhus and trekkers alike.

Sagas @ Satopanth Lake...

The sound of the avalanches – alike the sound of a thunder, only accentuates this all-embracing, all-pervading silences. The emerald green water of triangular lake mirrors the snow crested Chaukhamba I peak. The image has been repeatedly broken by the waves of the lake forming due to the pleasantly cold gentle breeze that wafted from the snow crested Chaukhamba peak. The broken image re-forms immediately only to be broken again.
 

In the morning darkness still enveloped us till quite suddenly the first rays of sunlight bathed the tip of Mt. Chaukhamba.

I was resting on the grassy bank of the lake when Devendra Singh showed me a path towards the Chaukhamba I peak and told me, that was the path traversed by the Pancha Pandavs on their last journey to the heaven. He said, even today, ascetics who want to leave this painful world to enter the other world of supreme bliss, often take that path never to return
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Satopanth Tal. It's a triangular shaped lake with each side about 1 Km. long. The crystal clear water had a greenish colour and all around the lake stands mighty Himalayan snow peaks. As we came down at the bank of the lake we saw the reflection of Mt. Chaukhamba on the water. It was beautiful beyond expression.

From the bank of the lake, I could see a clear path like trail leading to the peak of Chaukhamba. But as the sun rose high, avalanches after avalanches started to roll down that path. It’s definitely a sure path to the other world; whether that path goes to heaven or hell that I am not very sure.

It's not an ice cream,Head of Chaukhamba Massiff @ Satopanth lake.

A rare dragon cloud on mount Chaukhamba.

The clearness of the lake-water was surprising. It’s crystal clear. Standing on its bank, I could see almost its bottom. Legends has it, whenever something falls in the water, small birds would come flying and pick it up from the water. Some small grey birds were hopping around me on the bank of the Satopanth Lake.
 

Satopanth (left 7075m) and Chandra Parbat (right 6739m). Eastern part of the Western Garwhal Himal on the Satopanth Lake Trek, Uttaranchal, India.

As the evening descended, my silent ascetic came and sat beside me. It seemed that he is in a mood to talk. Immediately, I started to fire my questions. Smilingly he took up a pen and started to write down his answers in my diary.

I asked, ‘why did he come to this god forsaken place?’

He simply replied, ‘to meditate’.

‘But that can be done in ones home.’

He said, ‘yes. But you know, milk comes out only from the nipples of the cow and not from its horn or hoop.’

Closer view of Swargarohini(Path to Heaven).A myth or belief is Yudhishthir,the jyeshtha pandav was taken to Heaven By GODs in a rath(chariot)from this path.there are said to be 7 steps built up by Ravana to conquer the Heaven.because of melting of the dangerous glaciers the steps aren't clearly visible,only ice is seen

We talked about god, religion, spirituality, laws of nature, almost on every thing under the sun except on his person. He refused to answer any personal query; not even from where he came from. He had magnificent clarity of though, deep insight, strong opinion – a bit religious may be, but nevertheless strong belief backed by logical argument. 
 

Swargarohini Base,Can you see the Stairs To Heven?Closer view of Swargarohini(Path to Heaven).A myth or belief is Yudhishthir,the jyeshtha pandav was taken to Heaven By GODs in a rath(chariot)from this path.there are said to be 7 steps built up by Ravana to conquer the Heaven.because of melting of the dangerous glaciers the steps aren't clearly visible,only ice is seen

At the end of it he asked me, ‘why did you come?’

I said, ‘to see and to experience this fantastic world of myth and reality; to see this breathtaking beauty.’

He said, ‘me too. But to see the mountain within the mountain; to see the tal

within the tal; to experience the world within this world of myth.’

Some small grey and blue birds were hopping around us.

The evening passed into a starry night, I have never seen so many stars in the night sky before and the night into a glorious dawn.

Our Tents near Chaukhamba and Balakun...

In the morning darkness still enveloped us till quite suddenly the first rays of sunlight bathed the tip of Mt. Chaukhamba. Then started the fantastic colour changes on the snow. Initially pink, the colurs turned to shades of vermillion, red, orange, ochre and yellow until the sunlight shed its radiance on the entire region.

Mt.Chaukambha .. next to swargarohini.. scores have lost their lives trying to ascend this peak. Had more than 5 avalanches in one night.

Every one of us stood still in awe the half hour and more that nature revealed its finest hour of morning glory. We stayed at Satopanth Tal till 9 a.m. before we began our return trek to Badrinath via Mana.
 

Chaukhamba Masiff rising above Satopanth Lake.Reflection of Choukhamba III in Satopanth Taal's water

It was time to depart from this world of splendor and legend. As we clambered up the ridge, our silent ascetic stood on the bank of lake biding us farewell. I turned back to have a last look. I, certainly, will not be coming again. Seeing me turn back, he waived. I felt his gaze on me — full of compassion and tolerance, silently caressing me like the soft touch of a caring mother. Again something wailed inside me, and again I felt like crying aloud.

We did not know anything about him. Mortals like us are not comfortable with unanswered queries and unexplained phenomena. There were so many unanswered questions– thousands of it that were never going to be answered, smothered by the omnipotent silence. Perhaps he was right to take the vow of silence. This is certainly the right place for taking such a vow.

It is said, Bramha-Bishnu-Maheswar – the holiest of the Gods, the Holy Trinity, are in perpetual meditation on the three vertices of the triangular shaped Satopanth Tal (Lake). That’s why its ambience is so ethereal. Nobody dares to break the all-pervading cloak of silence around here.


                                                             ||शुभम भवतु ||

Satopanth Tal (Lake):..... Route to Heaven.....From Mana To Satopanth...The Vivacious Path.

.  ........ Journey on the way of Pandavas .........

DAY......2

The Satopanth Lake, 25 kms from Badrinath, could be reached after a difficult trek of two-day with night rest at Lakshmiban and Chakratirtha. Caves in those stopovers are used as the night shelter. Around Badrinath every place is steeped in legends so are Lakshmi Van and Chakratirtha. It is said that Goddess Lakshmi ( goddess of wealth)and her husband Narayan ( the preserver) meditated in Lakshmiban and Chakratirtha respectively and while meditating Narayan kept his famous Sudarshan Chraka on the valley which depressed by the weight of that Chakra to form a beautiful round shaped meadow surrounded by lofty mountains.

Flora @ Chamtoli BUgyal...

It was still dark, around 5 in the morning, when I woke up. As I fell asleep around 8 in the night, an early rise was obvious. Even dog-tired souls just cannot sleep more than 9 hours. As I looked with some trepidation towards the dangerous trail that lay ahead that we have to traverse, the first few sunrays touched the snow crested peaks of Himalayas and the peaks erupted into a blaze. Stunned, I devour the sight — a prodigious fire on snow peaks. All of yesterdays’ hassles and hardships have turned into a beautiful gift.

Sun Rays Kissing The Himalayan Peaks @ Dawn...

Himalaya takes a lot but gives back plenty; one could not hold it in ones palm, it always overflows. These blessed mountains were so compactly filled with God's beauty of Sunshine....

Sun rays Kissing The Himalayan Peaks @ Dawn..

I felt Nature is the most thrifty thing in the world; she never wastes anything;she undergoes change, but there's no annihilation - the essence remains.The first act of awe,I was strucked with the beauty or wonder of Nature, was the first spiritual experience."

Fire Ablaze On The Himalayan peaks...

The most sad part of the trek. Prasad has to return back to Badrinath. Previous night he had severe breathing problem and his pulse was dropped to 60. He got fever also. In the morning we made the decision and he returned back and Me,Vishram,Sanjay,Vish,Ana ,Sunil stayed there to proceed further. Everybody was crying at that time.Our guides went with him to guide him up to the Vasudhara trail and after that he was about l return back and start for Chakrateerth.

Prasad and Devendra Rana Back To Vasudhara Falls..

This day was expected to be a hard day as we planned to cover the additional distance of the previous day's shortfall to reach Chakratirtha in the evening, as scheduled. As the valley is inside towering mountain walls, we had to wait for the sun to dry our tents. At nine a.m. Devendra came back and we walked along trackless paths and over large boulders.

This is path towards Banglung glacier....Boulders and Glaciers..

Clambering up the loose moraine, going two steps forward and sliding one step down, with a few water falls and snow peaks giving company; it is laborious and event less except a few land slides and rock falls that nearly killed us. But by that time, such happenings were ‘all in a days’ work’!

Pathless journey...

While approaching Lakshmi Van, just opposite the Banglung Glacier snout point at Alkapuri ,On the way Devendra Sing showed us a valley, high up on the mountain and said, “ O dekhiye Alakapuri”( See there is Alakapuri)”! Alakapuri, the abode of Kuber, the God of wealth, was immortalized by Kalidas – the great ancient poet, in his book of verse “Meghdutam..

The Alaknanda rises at the confluence and feet of the Satopanth and Bhagirath Kharak glaciers in Uttarakhand.opposite the snout point of Banglung Glacier..

Alaknanda Becomes Broad Here...On The left Bank...The Trees Are Laxmi Van...

At Lakshmi Van we saw Bhuj Plants that grow in the Himalayan region at altitudes over 10000 feet. In ancient days, the leaves of the bark of these plants were used for manuscripts.it is here Sahdev breathed his last..

Laxmi Van...Lakshmi-van. This is an amazing spot, believed to the place where goddess Lakshmi is supposed to have meditated.contains Bhurj Patra trees..

At Bandhar we got the first view of the Bhagirathi Kharak Glacier which emerges from Mt. Bhagirathi I, II & III and continues to meet the Banglung Glacier at Alkapuri. Mt. Bhagirathi I (22488 feet), II (21359 feet) & III (21169 feet) were visible from here. From Bandhar upto Sahashradhara the path was entirely over boulders strewn over a narrow ridge.

(L to R) Bhagirathi II,III and I.Bhagirathi are the group of three high peaks namely Bhagirathi - I,II,III with the height of 6856,6512,6454 in garhwal himalayas.

Taking rest in between hopping over the bolders.That was a powerful stream we crossed.At Bandhar Nakul was released from his earthly life.

The Glacier Zone Begins.At Bandhar we got the first view of the Bhagirathi Kharak Glacier which emerges from Mt. Bhagirathi I, II & III and continues to meet the Banglung Glacier at Alkapuri.

By the time we reached Sahashradhara at 2:30 pm, the weather was rapidly deteriorating, as it is wont to do in the late afternoons. We decided to pitch our tents at the bank of a narrow stream. As it was not a proper camping site, the wind at this altitude of some 14,000 feet was harsh and biting cold. Most members were feeling the ill-affects of high altitude. The west face of Mt. Neelkanth (21638 feet) was visible from here. From Badrinath we can view the East face.

Beautiful cloud formation from Neelkanth.

At Sahastradhara lots of streams were coming down and those were very powerful.Eventually, on the verge of collapse, we reached our destination. As we collapsed on the last ridge – the valley laying under us,Ana, my companion uttered a full sentence of the day, she was too busy to save his life. She said wearily, “Well, we are saved

Sahastradhara falls,15 kms from Mana.From Bandhar upto Sahashradhara the path was entirely over boulders strewn over a narrow ridge.

Icy winds blew through the night and it was biting cold. As is often so at higher altitudes, we could not sleep properly. We awoke to the thick layer of fresh snow on the narrow stream beside which we pitched our tents. There were footprints which some claimed are the rare snow leopard believed to be occasionally sighted in these regions

Sahastradhara falls,15 kms from Mana.From Bandhar upto Sahashradhara the path was entirely over boulders strewn over a narrow ridge.

It was a clear morning and we were mesmerized by the spell-binding views of the snow capped peaks of Mt. Neelkanth (21638 feet), Mt. Chaukhamba (23413 feet) and Mt. Balakun (20040 feet). As this place was behind Mt. Neelkanth (21638 feet) in the east, we had the same problem of not getting sun rays early in the morning. We also waited for the chilled wind to stop.At last,We started at 9 a.m.,climbing long distances over boulders, short of breath and stamina, keenly aware of the scarcity of oxygen in the air.We took 1.5 hours to cross 2 km. The most dangerous part I encountered during the trek.

We decided to cross the region over this knife ridge and that was a terrible decision.One side of this ridge(R) is the glacier zone and to the left is the valley...

We reached Chakratirtha at about 12 noon to snack on our supply of dry foods, hoping to continue upto Satopanth Tal, but some members reached after 1 p.m., so we decided to camp at Chakratirtha. The valley at 15,000 feet has a large grassland and we basked in the afternoon sun, here.

camp at Chakratirtha.here the great Yogi,Nar and Great Warrior breathed his last...

Surrounded by lofty snow peaks, Chakratirtha, a well shaped circular green meadow, around 2 kms in length and 1.5 kms in breath, was a relief amidst the harsh environment. A small rivulet of about three feet wide divided the meadow in two halves. We witnessed terrifying avalanches off Mt. Satopanth (23206 feet) & Mt. Parvati and heard the gigantic sounds of glaciers breaking. Quite suddenly the sun vanished and it was entirely white, far in the distance. The snowfall which started at about 3 p.m. did not last long.

Sunset on Balakun.. Balakun Peak is located at the distance of 16 km from Badrinath. Balakun is situated north west to Badrinath. Balakun is situated between Bhagirathi Kharak glacier and Satopanth glacier.The peak is situated north east of Nilkanth peak. The Alaknanda river originates from below this peak by the melting of these two glaciers at an altitude of 3641 mts. The two glaciers rise from the eastern slopes of Chaukhamba (7140 mts) peak and wrapped around the Balakun peak..

At Chakrateertha, The Great yogi and The Great Warrior Arjun Breathed his last..At Chakrateerth only it is said that Arjun did penance for Lord Shiva before the Mahabharat war to have the great Pashupatastra...

We witnessed terrifying avalanches off Mt. Satopanth (23206 feet) & Mt. Parvati and heard the gigantic sounds of glaciers breaking. Quite suddenly the sun vanished and it was entirely white, far in the distance. The snowfall which started at about 3 p.m. did not last long. It is mount satopanth at sunset.

Next day morning clouds removed from the sky and weather became so beautiful.Balakun was bright,Parvati peak was also visible.

Stunning Balakun(20040 feet)-After sunrise,Balakun.

Parvati Peak visible

We were now about to start our last climb towards the holy Satopanth Lake surrounded by lofty mountain from .Chakratirtha to Satopant Tal. It was Ekadasi, when it is believed that Lord Narayana Himself bathes in these sacred waters.An unknown power was dragging us towards the holy lake and we were walking in solitude,silence as no body wanted to ruin the Divine silence created by Nature.....We Walked Towards That Unseen,Divine Power.

In the morning darkness still enveloped us till quite suddenly the first rays of sunlight bathed the tip of Mt. Chaukhamba. Then started the fantastic colour changes on the snow. Initially pink, the colurs turned to shades of vermillion, red, orange, ochre and yellow until the sunlight shed its radiance on the entire region.