The Road Through Kargil

 The Road Through Kargil

 

The road from Leh to Srinagar cuts right through Kargil, the most important site of the 1999 Kargil War, which kicked off when Pakistani soldiers and Kashmiri freedom fighters crossed the Line of Control. The clash occurred both in Kargil and along the ridges overlooking this strategically important section of the Leh-Srinagar road. It was the first ground conflict between India and Pakistan since they both developed nuclear weapons and so became the focus of media coverage around the world.

Driving along this section of road was nerve-wracking, mostly due to our over-active imaginations. Bunkers filled with rifle-toting Indian soldiers line the road and the atmosphere is further intensified by the oppressive dryness of the air and land which sucks the moisture from your tongue as you breathe.

  A friendly soldier guarding the Operation Vijay memorial near Drass 

Operation Vijay was a successful Indian attempt to push the infiltrators back across the border during the 1999 Kargil War. This memorial to the Indian soldiers who lost their lives in the operation has recently been opened to the public. It is near Drass, which also holds the unenviable record of being the second-coldest inhabited place on earth, after Oymyakon, Siberia.

                                                                             Kargil Town

                                                                             Mulbekh

The Indian soldiers guarding the gate were very friendly and happy to have their photo taken. Interestingly, the army and Jammu & Kashmir tourism department are now working to promote the area as an adventure tourism destination with plans for a golf course, pony trekking, mountaineering and high-altitude camping. Nearby Kargil is already popular with domestic tourists who come to pay their respects to those who lost their lives in 1999, see damage done by shells dropped, and visit Tiger Hill, site of the fiercest battles.

                                                                             Drass

Tiger Hill

                                                                           

                                                           Indian Army Chopper            

....................Continued                       

Leh...Srinagar Via Khar Dung La...On The Roof Of World....

Crossing The World's Highest Motorable Road

Climbing to Khardung La by road highest motor able road in the world at 18,380 feet gives a beautiful view of the surroundings.. Thanks to the HIMAL Road Runners of the Indian Army.

“Ladakh lies at the crossroads of the ancient trade routes from the Indian subcontinent to the great East-West trade highway or the ‘Silk Route.’ The traditional trade caravan routes traversed the passes of Zoji La (La means pass in Ladakhi), Namik La and Fotu La from Kashmir, and Baralacha La, Pang La and Taglang La from Himachal across the Great Himalayan and Zanskar ranges into the Indus River valley, converging at Leh.

From here it was possible to move to Tibet and Baltistan. Northwards from Leh, trade caravans carrying pashmina shawls, spices, opium and saffron cross the Ladakh range through the Khardung La or Chang La, traversed the forbidding Karakoram (meaning: Place of Black Gravel) range through the Karakoram pass and thence to the central Asian towns of Yarkand and Kashgar on the Silk Route. The caravans brought back precious stones, hashish, tobacco and silk.”

'Khardung La' (''la'' means ''pass'' in Tibetan) (elevation 5359 m) is a high mountain pass located in the Ladakh region, Jammu and Kashmir, India. The international spelling is used here, but it is locally spelt "Khardong La".

The pass on the Ladakh Range lies north of Leh and is the gateway to the Shyok and Nubra valleys. The Siachen Glacier lies partway up the latter valley. Built in 1976, it was opened to motor vehicles in 1988 and has since seen many automobile, motorbike and mountain biking expeditions.

Maintained by the Indian Army's Corps, the pass is strategically important to India as it is used to carry essential supplies to the Siachen. Khardong La is historically important as it lies on the major caravan route from Leh to Kashgar in Chinese Central Asia. About 10,000 horses and camels used to take the route annually, and a small population of Bactrian camels can still be seen in the area north of the pass, mute witnesses to history. During World War II there was a futile attempt to transfer war material to China through this route.

Khardung La is situated 37 km by road from Leh. The first 24 km, as far as the South Pullu check point, are paved. From there to the North Pullu check point about 15 km beyond the pass the roadway is primarily loose rock, dirt, and occasional rivulets of snow melt. However, this pass is in better repair than many of the surrounding passes (Tanglang La, for example). From North Pullu into the Nubra Valley, the road is very well maintained (except in a very few places where washouts or falling rock occur). Hired vehicles (2 and 4-wheel-drive), heavy trucks, and motorcycles regularly travel into the Nubra Valley, though special permits may need to be arranged for travellers to make the journey.

Our trip to Nubra Valley took us via the highest motorable road in the world through the Khardungla Pass. We set off around 9ish, climbed up to Khardungla at 5603m - the highest we have been so far - and then down into Nubra Valley.

Of all the places I've been to in my life, I'd rate Nubra Valley as among the most desirable places to visit - of course, during season, because during winters it becomes bitterly cold and unapproachable if the road closes. Both the view of Leh town as we left it and climbed to Khardungla, as well as the beauty of Nubra Valley as we descended into it are etched in my mind.

The Shyok River kept us company as we descended into the valley - grey, wide, winding and breathtakingly beautiful. No amount of descriptive writing or photography can do justice to Nubra Valley, which, cliched as it sounds, has to be seen and experienced to be believed.

Numerous rhyming signs scattered along the Leh-Srinagar route helped to keep our minds off the treacherous roads. Speeding seems to be the biggest road safety issue in Jammu & Kashmir. This is even more worrying when you see the standard of the roads, but signs such as “Be gentle on my curves”, “If you are married, divorce speed” and “Mountains are a pleasure if you drive with leisure” gave us good chuckles between speeding Tata lorries and precipitous bends. The most disconcerting sign, though, is found along the Pak-Indo border just past Kargil: “Caution: you are under enemy observation.” 

Ladakh-Land Of Freezing Winds And High Passes...

The Breath Taking Manali--Leh High Way

A land of freezing winds and burning hot sunlight, Ladakh is a cold desert lying in the rain shadow of the Great Himalayas and other smaller ranges. Little rain and snow reaches this dry area, where natural forces have created a fantastic landscape. Surrounded by rugged mountains this land is completely different from the green landscape of many parts of the Himalayas. Bounded by two of the world's mightiest mountain ranges, the Great Himalaya and the Karokaram, it is a land which has no match.Ladakh is one of the most beautiful hill stations, with those beautiful landscapes, green valleys, gorgeous lakes and those soothing snowy peaks. In here you breathe in the mild air and breathe out all your stress and tension.

The breath-taking view at every turn of the Manali-Leh highway imprints images that remain long after. In summer, a stream of buses and Enfield motorcycles set off from the Kullu Valley to travel along the second highest motorable road in the world, which reaches a dizzying altitude of 5,328m. It's surface varies wildly, from bumpy asphalt to dirt tracks sliced by glacial streams. This 485 km journey along different river valleys takes around 24 hours with an overnight camp at Sarchu at an altitude of 4,000 m. This highway is open only for 3 months (between July 15th and Sep 15th approx.) every year. During the other seasons of the year it is closed because of the snow.
One word makes every adventurer hold his breath in anticipation...one word makes every naturalist think of the ideal place to be...one word makes every traveler think of an exotic destination...one word makes a pilgrim think of salvation...Himalayas. Yes, the Himalayas with its rugged mountain peaks, evergreen forests, bone chilling regions, ancient temples, makes it an ideal destination for everyone: traveler, pilgrim or hardcore adventurer.

From Manali, the road crosses the Beas to begin its long ascent of the Rohtang Pass (3,900m). The views over the eternal snows of Solang Nala improve as you progress up, ranging from the coniferous forests to grassy mountain pastures. Just below the pass, the bus stops for a breakfast halt beside some dhabas. Nearby, a temple crowns the top of a bluff from where you get a great panoramic view of the upper Beas Valley.

Rohtang La (La means "Pass" in Tibetan) is the gateway to the rugged regions of Lahaul and Spiti. The pass between two 5,000-meter peaks, is one of the most treacherous passes in the region. People have been stranded there sometimes due to the sudden deterioration of weather. Rohtang literally means "pile of dead bodies".

The descent from Rohtang to the floor of the Chandra Valley affords tantalizing glimpses of the shining white sail massif. Koksar is where the road finally reaches the river. I can't forget the parathas we had there. They were aaloo-stuffed parathas, deep fried, yet not oozing oil, served with a Tibetan chutney. Finger-licking irresistible!

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From Darcha, the road climbs steadily along the mountain side of wine-red and pale-green scree to Zingzing Bar. As you move from this desolate land, you approach Baralacha La, which will blow your mind. The "twelve-horned" pass forms the head of three valleys, the Bhaga, the Chandra, and the Yunan. By the time you get to Sarchu Serai you'll be ready for a night's rest, which is in a tent. This is in the plains next to Bagha river at the bottom of a high, straight peak. Some makeshift dhabas serve you dal-chawal for dinner.



You head to Lachlang La (5,059m) from Sarchu, the second highest pass on the highway,

before descending to Pang at 4,500m. 3 km from Pang is the extraordinary Moray Plains (4,800m), a 45-km-long plateau encircled by rolling hills and brilliant white Himalayan peaks. The road starts its ascent from Dibring Camp to Tanglang La at a head-spinning 5,328m. This is the second highest pass in the world and by the time you reach there, your nose might well start bleeding slightly. This is a symptom of altitude-sickness. (More about this later). The Karakoram range of the Himalayas, visible from here signals that you are approaching Ladakh. This road goes along our age-old Indus (Sindhu) valley. Sindhu is the river which was the lifeline of India for thousands of years. It fed one of the oldest civilizations of the world (Indus Valley civilization). It is natural to feel overwhelmed at the sight of this great river.


The Gateway to Ladakh from Manali is Upshi. This is where the project for constructing and maintaining the highway, undertaken by the Indian army concludes. Considering the rugged terrain of the mighty Himalayas, maintaining this road itself is a Herculean task. Project Himank, as it is called, is amazing. One roadside board read, "If you want a road to the moon, please contact Himank". And we didn't find any exaggeration in it!