Journey on the way of Pandavas
DAY 3....
We Started our final journey from Chakrateerth to Satopanth Tal(Lake).Clouds removed from the sky and weather became so beautiful.Balakun was amazing @ Sun rise,stunning... was also very bright.Looking like a 24 karet Gold peak...We were so much tempted to have as much as possible photos of both Balakun and Chaukhamba...
Balakun Just After Sunrise....
When we walked from Chakratirtha to Satopant Tal,It was Ekadasi, when it is believed that Lord Narayana Himself bathes in these sacred waters. Climbing diagonally up a rocky sharply inclined wall face, it took us about an hour to reach the top of the first ridge. Climbing down the precipice-like slope was very dangerous. From here the entire region of sheer glacier was visible.
Surrounded by lofty snow peaks, Chakratirtha, a well shaped circular green meadow, around 2 kms in length and 1.5 kms in breath, was a relief amidst the harsh environment.
We watched crevasses in the valley. It was impossible to make out the way through the valley. Our able guide, Devendra Rana, along with his porters, worked a way down to the moraine or small rocks lying over old glacier. This work was done with an ice axe. The path was constructed diagonally by the wall of the ridge and required careful maneuvering.
It took us about an hour to reach the top of this ridge.
Again we saw some footprints which some claimed are the rare snow leopard believed to be occasionally sighted in these regions.
Pug Marks Of A Snow Leopard...
From here till Satopanth Tal we had to walk over the unseen glacier. At some places the glaciers was visible as the layer of boulders had moved away due to avalanches. We followed the route by the markings previously laid down of rocks placed vertically one on top of the other, at various places over the glacier.
path was constructed diagonally by the wall of the ridge.
On our way to Satopanth lake we saw huge rock structures..Devendra showed us those structures and said it is called as Bhim Bar or Bhima's Gada...At Bhimbar, the rock pillar commemorates Bhima’s release from earthly life....
It Is called Bhim bar Or Bhima's Gada...
The Path On Which We Walked..
We moved up slowly and steadily, one by one, negotiating dangerous crevasses. At last we saw the welcome flag at the top of a ridge. Below the flag on the other side of the ridge is Satopanth Tal. By this time we were all exhausted. Scarcity of oxygen had slowed us. The last 1 km was much tougher, as we were moving through avalanche zone.
Walking On Satopanth Glacier....Most dangerous Path...
Ultimately, one by one we came up at the bottom of the last ridge. Here the rocky soil was very slippery and the gradient of the ridge was also steep. Everyone kept calm and we succeeded in reaching the top of the ridge at 12 noon.On The way we saw an old lady walking towards Mana...We were utmost surprised to see an old lady walking alone on this path...For some time we were speechless...
An Old lady Alone Walking Towards Mana.
Walking On The Last Gradient Of The Ridge Was Also Steep.
Devendra is trying to have a short cut by crossing this small rivulet...
After three hours of hard trekking on the treacherous glacier we reached under the last ridge and could see the red flag flying on top of the ridge indicating the site of the lake. We simply dragged ourselves to the top.
Red flag flying on top of the ridge indicating the site of the lake
Here we had a magnificent view of the Lake: Satopanth Tal. It's a triangular shaped lake with each side about 1 Km. long. The crystal clear water had a greenish colour and all around the lake stands mighty Himalayan snow peaks. From left to right, they are Mt. Neelkanth (21638 feet), Mt. Satopanth (23,206 feet), Mt. Swargarohini (20507 feet), Mt. Chaukhamba I (23413 feet) and Mt. Balakun (20040 feet).
clouded chaukhamba massif rising above satopant lake.As the name suggests Chaukhamba, means four pillars. The four peaks are situated at an average elevation of 7138 metres, 7088 metres, 6995 metres and 6854 metres respectively above mean sea level. .
The first thing that struck me squarely was the strange ethereal ambience of the lake. It had such calm and soothing effect; probably because it’s an achievement of hard labour or may be the legends, ultimately got me! But I had to admit, our suicidal efforts were amply rewarded. The perfectly triangle shaped lake at the base of the snow crested Chaukhamba I peak, surrounded by lofty mountains reflected an azure sky. A small green field in its eastern side, dotted with alpine flowers accentuates the harsh surrounding. As I feasted on the spellbinding scenery, for the first time I became aware of the complete lack of sound around it. It’s eerie! Except the sound of occasional avalanches that were coming down the Chaukhamba peak, as it is already mid-day and the snow on the peak has started to melt, coming down as huge avalanches, the silence was all encompassing.
We ran into him on the bank of Satopanth Tal (14300 fts) - a small triangular, almost inaccessible, glacial lake in the hidden depths of the Himalayas. Indeed, it is the right place for a vow of silence. According to the Skanda Purana, this silence is guarded by Bramha, Vishnu & Maheshwar - the holy trinity who sit in meditation on the vertices of the triangular lake. No-one dares to break this silence.
As we came down at the bank of the lake we saw the reflection of Mt. Chaukhamba on the water. It was beautiful beyond expression. We offered worship, both silent personal prayers and puja to Lord Bramha, Vishnu & Maheshwar, breaking a coconut . Soon after the snowfall which began at 1:30 p.m. continued till late midnight.At Satopanth Tal there is a room which had been constructed by a pilgrim from the South. This room is still used by visiting sadhus and trekkers alike.
Sagas @ Satopanth Lake...
The sound of the avalanches – alike the sound of a thunder, only accentuates this all-embracing, all-pervading silences. The emerald green water of triangular lake mirrors the snow crested Chaukhamba I peak. The image has been repeatedly broken by the waves of the lake forming due to the pleasantly cold gentle breeze that wafted from the snow crested Chaukhamba peak. The broken image re-forms immediately only to be broken again.
In the morning darkness still enveloped us till quite suddenly the first rays of sunlight bathed the tip of Mt. Chaukhamba.
I was resting on the grassy bank of the lake when Devendra Singh showed me a path towards the Chaukhamba I peak and told me, that was the path traversed by the Pancha Pandavs on their last journey to the heaven. He said, even today, ascetics who want to leave this painful world to enter the other world of supreme bliss, often take that path never to return
.
Satopanth Tal. It's a triangular shaped lake with each side about 1 Km. long. The crystal clear water had a greenish colour and all around the lake stands mighty Himalayan snow peaks. As we came down at the bank of the lake we saw the reflection of Mt. Chaukhamba on the water. It was beautiful beyond expression.
From the bank of the lake, I could see a clear path like trail leading to the peak of Chaukhamba. But as the sun rose high, avalanches after avalanches started to roll down that path. It’s definitely a sure path to the other world; whether that path goes to heaven or hell that I am not very sure.
It's not an ice cream,Head of Chaukhamba Massiff @ Satopanth lake.
A rare dragon cloud on mount Chaukhamba.
The clearness of the lake-water was surprising. It’s crystal clear. Standing on its bank, I could see almost its bottom. Legends has it, whenever something falls in the water, small birds would come flying and pick it up from the water. Some small grey birds were hopping around me on the bank of the Satopanth Lake.
Satopanth (left 7075m) and Chandra Parbat (right 6739m). Eastern part of the Western Garwhal Himal on the Satopanth Lake Trek, Uttaranchal, India.
As the evening descended, my silent ascetic came and sat beside me. It seemed that he is in a mood to talk. Immediately, I started to fire my questions. Smilingly he took up a pen and started to write down his answers in my diary.
I asked, ‘why did he come to this god forsaken place?’
He simply replied, ‘to meditate’.
‘But that can be done in ones home.’
He said, ‘yes. But you know, milk comes out only from the nipples of the cow and not from its horn or hoop.’
Closer view of Swargarohini(Path to Heaven).A myth or belief is Yudhishthir,the jyeshtha pandav was taken to Heaven By GODs in a rath(chariot)from this path.there are said to be 7 steps built up by Ravana to conquer the Heaven.because of melting of the dangerous glaciers the steps aren't clearly visible,only ice is seen
We talked about god, religion, spirituality, laws of nature, almost on every thing under the sun except on his person. He refused to answer any personal query; not even from where he came from. He had magnificent clarity of though, deep insight, strong opinion – a bit religious may be, but nevertheless strong belief backed by logical argument.
Swargarohini Base,Can you see the Stairs To Heven?Closer view of Swargarohini(Path to Heaven).A myth or belief is Yudhishthir,the jyeshtha pandav was taken to Heaven By GODs in a rath(chariot)from this path.there are said to be 7 steps built up by Ravana to conquer the Heaven.because of melting of the dangerous glaciers the steps aren't clearly visible,only ice is seen
At the end of it he asked me, ‘why did you come?’
I said, ‘to see and to experience this fantastic world of myth and reality; to see this breathtaking beauty.’
He said, ‘me too. But to see the mountain within the mountain; to see the tal
within the tal; to experience the world within this world of myth.’
Some small grey and blue birds were hopping around us.
The evening passed into a starry night, I have never seen so many stars in the night sky before and the night into a glorious dawn.
Our Tents near Chaukhamba and Balakun...
In the morning darkness still enveloped us till quite suddenly the first rays of sunlight bathed the tip of Mt. Chaukhamba. Then started the fantastic colour changes on the snow. Initially pink, the colurs turned to shades of vermillion, red, orange, ochre and yellow until the sunlight shed its radiance on the entire region.
Mt.Chaukambha .. next to swargarohini.. scores have lost their lives trying to ascend this peak. Had more than 5 avalanches in one night.
Every one of us stood still in awe the half hour and more that nature revealed its finest hour of morning glory. We stayed at Satopanth Tal till 9 a.m. before we began our return trek to Badrinath via Mana.
Chaukhamba Masiff rising above Satopanth Lake.Reflection of Choukhamba III in Satopanth Taal's water
It was time to depart from this world of splendor and legend. As we clambered up the ridge, our silent ascetic stood on the bank of lake biding us farewell. I turned back to have a last look. I, certainly, will not be coming again. Seeing me turn back, he waived. I felt his gaze on me — full of compassion and tolerance, silently caressing me like the soft touch of a caring mother. Again something wailed inside me, and again I felt like crying aloud.
We did not know anything about him. Mortals like us are not comfortable with unanswered queries and unexplained phenomena. There were so many unanswered questions– thousands of it that were never going to be answered, smothered by the omnipotent silence. Perhaps he was right to take the vow of silence. This is certainly the right place for taking such a vow.
It is said, Bramha-Bishnu-Maheswar – the holiest of the Gods, the Holy Trinity, are in perpetual meditation on the three vertices of the triangular shaped Satopanth Tal (Lake). That’s why its ambience is so ethereal. Nobody dares to break the all-pervading cloak of silence around here.
||शुभम भवतु ||
