Leh.....Srinagar Via Khardung La......On The Roof Of The World......

Riding On The World's Most Scenic Road....

Barley field.....

The journey from Leh to Srinagar takes you from desert to lush valleys, from a Buddhist region to an Islamic one. 

Lamayuru is set in the midst of some rather strange scenery. The road through the mountains dips into a gorge that in turn opens up into moonscape badlands, with rounded, yellow pinnacles and meditation caves carved into the mountainside. Lamayuru - the oldest monastery in Ladakh, dating from the 11th century – perches quietly near the top of the mountain, overlooking the badlands. Its whitewashed walls glowed in the evening sun, which cast eerie shadows across the landscape below as we settled into our hotel for the night.

Lamayuru monastery

Lamayuru Monastery buildings

At Fotu La, the highest point of the Leh to Srinagar road....

Early the next day, about half an hour from Lamayuru, we reached the Fotu La (‘la’ means ‘pass’). At 4,100m it was the highest point of our journey. Compared with the Khardung La near Leh, the world’s highest motorable pass at 5,602m, which comes complete with souvenir shops, cafes and thousands of prayer flags, the Fotu La is pleasantly modest. There is only this sign Craig is standing next to, a few prayer flags and a satellite dish. There weren’t any other cars around either.

Fotu La

30kms short of Kargil...

The road between Leh and Srinagar used to be narrow and treacherous. Part of the army’s job is to help maintain it, as well as protect the border against militant insurgents from both Pakistan and Kashmir. Lengthy convoys of around 20 army trucks frequently passed us, in both directions. They invariably kicked up plenty of dust but their presence was vaguely reassuring.

Cattle and ther road in Nubra valley

Large-Heading out towards Kargil

33 kilometres before Islamic Kargil, Mulbekh is the last outpost of Buddhism in Jammu & Kashmir. A large relief of Buddha is carved into this jut of rock and Buddhists travel many miles to pay their respects here, but there were plenty of men wearing Muslim-style lunghis and kurtas in the village as well.

Road To Kargiil...

Flowers Everywhere,The scenery also began to take on tinge of green as our journey took us to lower altitudes and rainier climes.

The road from Leh to Srinagar cuts right through Kargil, the most important site of the 1999 Kargil War, which kicked off when Pakistani soldiers and Kashmiri freedom fighters crossed the Line of Control.

.                                                                                 Continued....

Leh...Srinagar Via Khar Dung La...On The Roof Of World....

Crossing The World's Highest Motorable Road

Climbing to Khardung La by road highest motor able road in the world at 18,380 feet gives a beautiful view of the surroundings.. Thanks to the HIMAL Road Runners of the Indian Army.

“Ladakh lies at the crossroads of the ancient trade routes from the Indian subcontinent to the great East-West trade highway or the ‘Silk Route.’ The traditional trade caravan routes traversed the passes of Zoji La (La means pass in Ladakhi), Namik La and Fotu La from Kashmir, and Baralacha La, Pang La and Taglang La from Himachal across the Great Himalayan and Zanskar ranges into the Indus River valley, converging at Leh.

From here it was possible to move to Tibet and Baltistan. Northwards from Leh, trade caravans carrying pashmina shawls, spices, opium and saffron cross the Ladakh range through the Khardung La or Chang La, traversed the forbidding Karakoram (meaning: Place of Black Gravel) range through the Karakoram pass and thence to the central Asian towns of Yarkand and Kashgar on the Silk Route. The caravans brought back precious stones, hashish, tobacco and silk.”

'Khardung La' (''la'' means ''pass'' in Tibetan) (elevation 5359 m) is a high mountain pass located in the Ladakh region, Jammu and Kashmir, India. The international spelling is used here, but it is locally spelt "Khardong La".

The pass on the Ladakh Range lies north of Leh and is the gateway to the Shyok and Nubra valleys. The Siachen Glacier lies partway up the latter valley. Built in 1976, it was opened to motor vehicles in 1988 and has since seen many automobile, motorbike and mountain biking expeditions.

Maintained by the Indian Army's Corps, the pass is strategically important to India as it is used to carry essential supplies to the Siachen. Khardong La is historically important as it lies on the major caravan route from Leh to Kashgar in Chinese Central Asia. About 10,000 horses and camels used to take the route annually, and a small population of Bactrian camels can still be seen in the area north of the pass, mute witnesses to history. During World War II there was a futile attempt to transfer war material to China through this route.

Khardung La is situated 37 km by road from Leh. The first 24 km, as far as the South Pullu check point, are paved. From there to the North Pullu check point about 15 km beyond the pass the roadway is primarily loose rock, dirt, and occasional rivulets of snow melt. However, this pass is in better repair than many of the surrounding passes (Tanglang La, for example). From North Pullu into the Nubra Valley, the road is very well maintained (except in a very few places where washouts or falling rock occur). Hired vehicles (2 and 4-wheel-drive), heavy trucks, and motorcycles regularly travel into the Nubra Valley, though special permits may need to be arranged for travellers to make the journey.

Our trip to Nubra Valley took us via the highest motorable road in the world through the Khardungla Pass. We set off around 9ish, climbed up to Khardungla at 5603m - the highest we have been so far - and then down into Nubra Valley.

Of all the places I've been to in my life, I'd rate Nubra Valley as among the most desirable places to visit - of course, during season, because during winters it becomes bitterly cold and unapproachable if the road closes. Both the view of Leh town as we left it and climbed to Khardungla, as well as the beauty of Nubra Valley as we descended into it are etched in my mind.

The Shyok River kept us company as we descended into the valley - grey, wide, winding and breathtakingly beautiful. No amount of descriptive writing or photography can do justice to Nubra Valley, which, cliched as it sounds, has to be seen and experienced to be believed.

Numerous rhyming signs scattered along the Leh-Srinagar route helped to keep our minds off the treacherous roads. Speeding seems to be the biggest road safety issue in Jammu & Kashmir. This is even more worrying when you see the standard of the roads, but signs such as “Be gentle on my curves”, “If you are married, divorce speed” and “Mountains are a pleasure if you drive with leisure” gave us good chuckles between speeding Tata lorries and precipitous bends. The most disconcerting sign, though, is found along the Pak-Indo border just past Kargil: “Caution: you are under enemy observation.” 

Beauty In The Valley

Play Ground Of Gods And Godesses

Trespassing their celestial abode was avoided although shepherds did take the liberty to graze their cattle here.

Legends associate this valley with the area from where Hanumanji of Ramayana collected. 'Sanjeevani' herbs to revive

Lakshmana, the younger brother of Rama. Hanuman had to visit far-flung areas in his search for the life-saving herbs, some named after him."

The Valley was introduced to the world as the Valley of Flowers by Frank S, Smith - mountaineer, explorer, botanist who camped here for several weeks in the monsoon of 1937 and did valuable exploratory work. He authored a book called "The Valley of Flowers" which unveiled the beauty and floral splendours of the valley and thus threw open the doors of this verdant jewel to nature-enthusiasts all over the world.

In 1939, Miss Margarate Legge, a botanist deputed by the botanical gardens of Edinburgh arrived at the valley for further studies. While she was traversing some rocky slopes to collect flowers, she slipped off and was lost for ever in the garden of the gods. Her sister later visited the valley and erected a memorial on the spot where she was buried by the locals. The

thoughtful memorial is still there and the lines inscribed on the marble slab read:

"I will lift mine eyes
unto the Hills
from whence cometh my strength"

Many streams flowing from glacial deposits in and around the Valley irrigate it and merge finally into the Pushpawati river.While exploring the Valley, the smaller streams can be easily crossed by wading across but the larger ones need to be crossed on log bridges. In case those have not been put up in time, thick glacial bridges across the streams also serve the purpose.

There are no side tracks for viewing colonies of flowers away from the main track so you can either try to wade Through

knee-deep flowers and foliage, crushing some on the way or stay on the single track running through the length of the valley without seeing the best.

You may however stand on a raised vantage point to get a better view of flowers all around. Within the main Valley; there are many smaller valleys carved out by streams of melting glaciers. On the banks of these Valleys, you can encounter the most exciting pattern of flowers. One such Valley exists along the Donagair Garh, the last of many streams. On its banks flower some of the most magnificent plants. Every moist place holds its quota of glorious flowers which grace the still air with their subtle fragrance

.

The Valley of Flowers is flanked on either side by majestic peaks, many capped with snow. The Pushpawati river, emerging from

the glacial deposits around Rataban and Nilgiri ranges, cuts through the Valley and divides it into two sectors.The major

portion of the Valley is on its right bank and is a paradise fortrekkers

The Valley of Flowers is an alpine valley, and has been formed by the retreating glaciers whose periodic advances and

retreat pulverised hard rocks, resulting in a smooth U-shaped valley which was later colonised by numerous plants adopting

themselves to the harsh climatic conditions prevailing there.The Valley remains snow covered from November to May but when the ice envelope thaws on June it is a signal for profusion of colours hidden in petals of alpine during July and August. Some important flowering plants having tremendous medicinal values are: Anemone, Geranium, Marsh, Marigold, Primula, Potentilla, Geum, Aster. Lilium, Himalayanblue poppy, Aconite, Delphinium, Ranunculus, Corydalis, Inula, Saussurea abvallata, Campanula. Pedicularis, Trysimum, Morina, Impetiens, Bistorta. Ligularia. Anaphalis Saxifraga, Lobelia, Thermophis, Trolises. Aquilogia, Codonopsis. Dactylorhiza, Cypripedium. Straw berries and Rhododendron etc.

Apart from the flowering plants, wild animals like Himalayan birds, phigents, butterflies, Tendula, Musk deer, Bharal Mountain

goats), Himalayan bear, tail less rat etc. are enchancing the beauty too. The Valley of Flowers is an irresitible treat for

naturalists, ecologists. environmentalists, zoologists, ornithologists, trekkers. tourists and pilgrims.

The trek continues along Pushpawati. A couple of kilometres ahead, the river is crossed overto its right bank on another

bridge and this trail goes upto the Valley of Flowers. Snow bridges can be seen spanning the river but their strength should

be properly judged if they are to be used to cross the river

The Valley becomes accessible from late April when the snow starts melting and flowing down the buttrssnes and gullies. The

spring avalanches pouring down the slopes provide appropriate moisture for flowers. The moist turf begins to pulsate with

life and from the dead herbage of the previous summer, innumerable shoots of countless plants rise expectantly as though in anticipation of the warm life-giving breath of the approaching monsoon.

Primulas cover up shelves and terraces in colour of the most heavenly French blue. Their soft petals covered with dew, like

galaxies of pearls, emanate sweetest of scents. In the lush meadows drifts of snow-white Anemones drench the ground.

Anaphalles and Potentillas start establishing their colonies, With the arrival of rains in June, Balsam, Geranium,

Pedicularis and many other species, mostly in pink and red set the dominating colour pattern of the Valley without subduing

other seasonal shades of yellow, purple and white

Although the main land of the Valley is about 4 kms. from Ghanghria, flowers and foliage in exotic varieties can be spotted

throughout the route. Immediately after crossing the Laxman Ganga, colonies of blue Hackelia uncinata, commonly known as

'forget me not' can be seen in the midst of shrubs and foliage along the roadride. Primulas, Morinas, wild roses and many

other species are quite abundant.

The pinkish glow of the Valley can be attributed to the large colonies of Androsace. Marsh orchid. Geranium. Pediculsris and

the carpetting Thymus. all in near pink. Splashes of golden lily and creamy bell-shaped Codonopsis are also seen.The pink

Pedicularis gives way to its yellow cousin-the mainstay of the August bloom. Yellow flowers bedeck the Valley as July

proceeds - Pedicularis, Grandiflora. Ligularia, Saxifraga and Potentillas. The Potentillas are the first to appear and last

to disappear in the Valley.