On An Almost Heaven's Trek
Next morning the excitement was palpable as we all got ready for the great day. The route looked funny on the map because the road maps failed to show the mountain ranges that characterized the way from Joshimath to Govindghat. It was stunningly beautiful and we paused to capture captivating moments. The road was quite bad as we navigated slowly and crazily near the precipice due to the danger of falling rocks. Mercifully the rain held out as our convoy headed to Govindghat, 21 kms away from Joshimath. This is also the route to Badrinath.
Govind Ghat
We walked through the town of Govind Ghat.With backpacks of cameras and lenses, we made our way through the lanes of this town. I was keen to get away and start the trek. That was the moment, standing on the suspension bridge, the shiny meandering trail spanning across ridges till it was lost to the sight. It seemed so far away.
Govind Ghat
Journeying from Govindghat Ghangaria would mean an ascent of 1,220 metres (over 4,000 feet).
Suspension bridge over Alaknanda @ Govind Ghat
We crossed the river and began our trek our 13 kms to Ghangaria , the base camp for valley of Flowers as well as Hemkund Sahib.Only 30 minutes from the edge of Govindghat, I was in sparsely populated land, passing an orchard containing a gaggle of children practicing stone throwing. The first part of the trek I had read was difficult. Between swallows of breath, I stopped to capture the essence. One km away from Govindghat's main road, the zigzag mule track begins at Pulna and I noticed it has a mark of being 13 kms away from Ghangaria.
It started to drizzle and then pour.Filled with enthusiasm, I was so enamored with the beauty of the place that, save for a brief stop by at a roadside kiosk to buy a plastic raincoat, I began the trek right away. The raincoat came of use as it kept drizzling on and off during the rest of the journey. Though it was cool, the looming noon sun was beating down on us mercilessly, and made us wish we had begun the trek early that morning.I trekked relatively easily, carrying my backpack for the first two hours during which I ascended about 400 m. or so. At one point, during a steep climb, I suddenly realized that I've got to ascend more than 800 m for the day and then began to acutely feel the strain of the weight of my backpack.
Trek Route To Ghangria.
After trekking for 3-4 kms, we crossed the beautiful Bhuyundar village, a cluster of modest houses with the backdrop of misty mountains.
Bhuyundar village
For those who are not in the mood for trekking, there's a choice of hiring an animal. For that matter, there are crudely assembled palanquins available for the benefit of the faint hearted (pilgrims mostly, as I believe hikers are tough); and to carry children, also pittoos. Pittoos, porters of mostly Nepali origin, carry kids of the pilgrims in cane-woven baskets on their backs.
Those who can't make the walk, opt for mules.
The songs and the jokes were gone. Water has seeped through the socks. Spirits were still holding out but for how long? We had not even reached the half way mark. We had a light meal of maggie which was rejuvenating. March onwards, that’s what the slogan was. Mercifully the rain has eased out somewhat and the pathway is a bit more straight and manageable. Leaving the roar of the river behind, we take a turn at the mountain end as the mist lifts unveiling the magic of the valley. Negotiating through waterfalls on slippery edges, the roaring river down below seemed like an eventuality that I did not want to happen. The rain came once again and the plastic hoods were back on the heads.
We stopped often to admire the exotic flora and the many spots of cascading waterfalls from the great heights into the valley before joining the roaring waters of the flowing Lakshman Ganga. The river was flowing almost parallel to the trek path and gives me company most of the way. The long journey was a bit tiring but beautiful all the way.
River Laxman Ganga
March onwards, that’s what the slogan was. Mercifully the rain has eased out somewhat and the pathway was a bit more straight and manageable. Leaving the roar of the river behind, we took a turn at the mountain end as the mist lifts unveiling the magic of the valley. Negotiating through waterfalls on slippery edges, the roaring river down below seemed like an eventuality that I did not want to happen. The rain came once again and the plastic hoods were back on the heads.
Lines blur as the mist rolled over from all sides. The rain was unrelenting and limbs tired. Pauses were frequent and longer.Another river joined us and we walked in opposite directions. She was aggressive on her own mission. Twice,we took tea-breaks at shacks during the 7 hours trek. I watched pilgrims looking dreamy through the mist plodding along the steep trek path, wearing colorful raincoats. Both times,We chose a spot that has the River Lakshman Ganga running close to the shacks. The effect of the gurgling river has a soothing effect. The marvelous feeling of sipping tea in such surroundings was something that I can't experience even in 5-star surroundings.
Ghangaria was still miles away but we knew that we have crossed the half way mark. We crossed fellow travelers on their way back. On mules they pushed their way through, hanging precariously on the edge of the saddle. Tired as I was, still happy to be on my foot and not on an animal that has a mind of its own.
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