Sunrise

The stillness of the early morning scene enables me to take in and enjoy many

things which pass me by during the bustle of the day. First, there are the scents,

which seem even more generous with their offerings than they are in the evening.

Valley of Flowers.....One Day In The Paradise

At Valley of Flowers Gate

It was a cold and cloudy morning in Ghangaria. Packing some nuts and raisins in  day packs, we had a quick breakfast at a tiny restaurant and in reduced visibility through the mist, we all set out to the Valley of Flowers. It began to drizzle lightly and the entire path ahead was looking beautiful.

Soon we came across a scenic bridge across the stream..This route was much easier when compared to the hemkund route. The rocky mountains looked really beautiful and majestic. Because it was September we did not have to walk on any glacier, but passed though one glacier on the way. After walking for about 3 to4 km we entered the actual valley. The flowers had greatly reduced but the entire setting was extremely scenic. The beautiful green/yellow/red colored valley, surrounded by mountains with trees at the lower levels, brown and grey soil in the middle and then the white snow at the top.

There was no sun and it was hard to describe the way in which light played with the appearance of meadows and flowers alike. It was incredibly beautiful. The hills along the river were dotted with flowers that appear quite pink, almost as if they have gone amok. The dew was hanging on to their edges, as if glued for decoration. They look towards me the way interrogators would, glancing with intensity.

In the deep ravine, the roar of the River Pushpavathi can be heard. I glanced back and stopped to espy the beautiful mountain town of Ghangaria from a height. I knew there is no chance for exhaustion on this beautiful route.

Continuing the climb, I got closer to the River Pushpavati flowing. A short descent and I crossed a bridge over the gushing waters. Then the steep ascent began. Before long, I chanced upon a remnant of a fascinating Himalayan glacier. It reminds me of a decorated cake with its icing.

It was like Waking Up to rolling green hills and billowy white clouds, flowers swaying in the fields all this seen as though in a dream. I was speechless. In the midst of such beauty, in a moment, so many moments came alive. It was a rapture of a rhapsody.Under the overhang of a large rock, we huddled to listen to our guide relate the story of Mary Legge who discovered the valley and eventually became a part of it. She slipped and died in the valley in 1939. Someone suggested that we should go and pay our respects at her memorial. 

As the guide with utmost reverence recited the words inscribed on her grave: "I will lift mine eyes unto the Hills from whence cometh my help.” There was no need to go to her memorial; she was there, everywhere. It was a lungful of life and at 13,000 feet; it felt like heaven. With Atul prancing by my side, the thought of finding pretty damsels in heaven were pushed aside. He and Amol made sure that they hung over, around and under every species of flower to get themselves photographed. 

 

It drizzled again and then followed the sun peeping through the clouds unexpectedly. Through the rest of the day the pattern continued: following sunlight, intermittent drizzle, mist, and more precipitation. The misty mountains through the sun rays gave me glimpses of the enchanting beauty around. The continuous change in the intensity of light at that height was enthralling.

At every turning, there was a new surprise. The sight of the snow clad peaks particularly made my heart leap with joy. The cascading waterfalls was a sight to behold. At certain places, the path was narrow, and slippery. I saw a few locals working at a spot where there has been a recent landslide because of rains. Nodding heads in acknowledgment, exchanging smiles and accepting a few word of advice from them to be cautious and to ensure an early return, I proceeded further.

I continued trudging the final ascent to reach the entrance to the Valley. A variety of flowers, dominated by pink and purple Balsam fill to the brim on either side of the narrow trek path. I reached the entrance and looked up, and stopped abruptly, speechless at the breathtaking sight! I heared my fellow trekker gasp and whisper, “It’s heavenly!”

Picturesque mountain landscape of rich vegetation with the ephemeral clouds wrapping the mountain tops was an amazing sight. The mountains were of different shades of green, some bare and the peaks of ones at a distance, snow-clad. Within the Valley itself there were different smaller valleys. Streams of water flew right down into the River below. There were areas of treeless green meadows which were as charming as the wooded areas.

Hundreds of species of wild flowers were everywhere and these fields in the misty mountains had a mesmerizing effect on me. No matter how carefully I walked along the narrow path, a few sadly get crushed under my feet. Wild buttercups, Himalayan Knotweeds, Gentians, Rhodiolas, wild daisies, and from what I recognized, varieties of Campanula, lilies (also cobra lilies), milk parsleys, primulas, potentillas and balsam are found aplenty. I recalled reading the Blue Himalayan Poppy and Brahm Kamal are rare species found only at these great heights.

I felt sheer joy amidst the variety of flowers in the enchanting Valley. Time flies in the resplendent fields of wildflowers. I watched the snow clad Rataban peak and the gleaming Nilgiri Parbat posing majestically in the distance.I got an urge to lie down on a small patch of grass. Initially I stretched, face upwards, and watched the sky scattered with indolent clouds. Cool breeze blows. When the sunlight gets into my eyes, I turned my face sideways and see a field of flowers: Primula, Potentillas, Geraniums, Campions, Bellflowers, Rhubarbs, Whorlflowers, Balsam, and a variety of other flowers, some quivering and others gracefully swaying in the cool breeze.

The picture of the Valley with its scenery of the mist on the trail, the sea of flowers, melting glaciers, streams with gushing waters, green meadows, snow-clad mountains and their peaks looming against the horizon is aesthetically stimulating. It permanently etched a deep impression on my mind. The beauty and serenity of the place captured me in a spell. I was completely connected with the surroundings. I feel then every bit of effort that I took to get to the top is well worth the endeavor and the weary feet.

It was now time to get back, and I remembered Ruskin Bond’s words:

…the infinity of mountains, the feeling of

space – limitless space – can only be

experienced by living in the mountains

On The Trail--Paradise On Earth-valley Of Flowers

A Path To Heaven

We continued trudging along. Tired towards the end, the journey of the last 2-3 kms only was more steep but there was no time to rest my weary feet as we were keen on reaching Ghangaria before sunset. Then we came across a helipad area, and a cluster of tents.We knew from what we had been told that this was an indication that we have almost reached.In between gasps I tried and not look ahead nor think about what lies ahead of the bend. I stopped so often and each time it was a task to get up and walk again. My friend has deserted me by now and I was alone. Every heartbeat telling me this is the last. I was grim by this point but continued on into the setting sun, cresting several passes, forging way ahead in to the dark valley.

As I left the last pit stop, I saw the camping ground with dotted colors of the tents. It was a feeling of relief till my eyes wander over to a milestone, tucked away in the grey corner “GHANGAHIA 1KM”. Various ailments had already reached a sort of silently-shrieking crescendo – my back was gone, muscles stretched to their limits and I now remembered the song” Comfortably Numb”. In between these wandering thoughts, I surprised myself by making it to Ghangaria.

We took about 7 hours to walk up the 13 kms and reached Ghangria at 4.30 pm.Ghangria has a helipad and some space for camping. Half a km from the helipad is the one streat village of Ghangria lined with hotels,resturants and a Gurudwara. Gurudwara offers free accomodation and food to all. We found a basic room right accross the gurudwara. Ghangria has power supply only between 5 am to 7 am and 7pm to 9.30 pm.By evening Ghangria turns very cold Though people say that its wiser to visit VOF before Hemkund because that gives greater time for your body to acclimatize.

Ghangria

In the twilight, at one point, I watched the fog clearing up and voila..I saw before me just a few feet away from the lodge a huge mountain side, like a tall wall looming right in front of me. I fele it real close like a spectacular wallpaper on my PC monitor but that was real and beautiful nature! It was an exhilarating experience spending time in the midst of these towering peaks some of which are at a height of more than 20,000 feet above sea level.I covered up well to protect from the freezing weather to go out for some early dinner in anticipation of having an early night in Ghangaria. I was just one night away from the day that was to dawn when I would be in the Valley of Flowers finally. With pleasant thoughts of anticipation of that day, I fell asleep.

Valley Of Flowers …. A Rare Natural Gem

On An Almost Heaven's Trek

Next morning the excitement was palpable as we all got ready for the great day. The route looked funny on the map because the road maps failed to show the mountain ranges that characterized the way from Joshimath to Govindghat. It was stunningly beautiful and we paused to capture captivating moments. The road was quite bad as we navigated slowly and crazily near the precipice due to the danger of falling rocks. Mercifully the rain held out as our convoy headed to Govindghat, 21 kms away from Joshimath. This is also the route to Badrinath.

Govind Ghat

We walked through the town of Govind Ghat.With backpacks of cameras and lenses, we made our way through the lanes of this town. I was keen to get away and start the trek. That was the moment, standing on the suspension bridge, the shiny meandering trail spanning across ridges till it was lost to the sight. It seemed so far away.

Govind Ghat

Journeying from Govindghat Ghangaria would mean an ascent of 1,220 metres (over 4,000 feet).

Suspension bridge over Alaknanda @ Govind Ghat

We crossed the river and began our trek our 13 kms to Ghangaria , the base camp for valley of Flowers as well as Hemkund Sahib.Only 30 minutes from the edge of Govindghat, I was in sparsely populated land, passing an orchard containing a gaggle of children practicing stone throwing. The first part of the trek I had read was difficult. Between swallows of breath, I stopped to capture the essence. One km away from Govindghat's main road, the zigzag mule track begins at Pulna and I noticed it has a mark of being 13 kms away from Ghangaria.

It started to drizzle and then pour.Filled with enthusiasm, I was so enamored with the beauty of the place that, save for a brief stop by at a roadside kiosk to buy a plastic raincoat, I began the trek right away. The raincoat came of use as it kept drizzling on and off during the rest of the journey. Though it was cool, the looming noon sun was beating down on us mercilessly, and made us wish we had begun the trek early that morning.I trekked relatively easily, carrying my backpack for the first two hours during which I ascended about 400 m. or so. At one point, during a steep climb, I suddenly realized that I've got to ascend more than 800 m for the day and then began to acutely feel the strain of the weight of my backpack.

Trek Route To Ghangria.

After trekking for 3-4 kms, we crossed the beautiful Bhuyundar village, a cluster of modest houses with the backdrop of misty mountains.

Bhuyundar village

For those who are not in the mood for trekking, there's a choice of hiring an animal. For that matter, there are crudely assembled palanquins available for the benefit of the faint hearted (pilgrims mostly, as I believe hikers are tough); and to carry children, also pittoos. Pittoos, porters of mostly Nepali origin, carry kids of the pilgrims in cane-woven baskets on their backs.

Those who can't make the walk, opt for mules.

The songs and the jokes were gone. Water has seeped through the socks. Spirits were still holding out but for how long? We had not even reached the half way mark. We had a light meal of maggie which was rejuvenating. March onwards, that’s what the slogan was. Mercifully the rain has eased out somewhat and the pathway is a bit more straight and manageable. Leaving the roar of the river behind, we take a turn at the mountain end as the mist lifts unveiling the magic of the valley. Negotiating through waterfalls on slippery edges, the roaring river down below seemed like an eventuality that I did not want to happen. The rain came once again and the plastic hoods were back on the heads.

We stopped often to admire the exotic flora and the many spots of cascading waterfalls from the great heights into the valley before joining the roaring waters of the flowing Lakshman Ganga. The river was flowing almost parallel to the trek path and gives me company most of the way. The long journey was a bit tiring but beautiful all the way.

River Laxman Ganga

March onwards, that’s what the slogan was. Mercifully the rain has eased out somewhat and the pathway was a bit more straight and manageable. Leaving the roar of the river behind, we took a turn at the mountain end as the mist lifts unveiling the magic of the valley. Negotiating through waterfalls on slippery edges, the roaring river down below seemed like an eventuality that I did not want to happen. The rain came once again and the plastic hoods were back on the heads.

Lines blur as the mist rolled over from all sides. The rain was unrelenting and limbs tired. Pauses were frequent and longer.Another river joined us and we walked in opposite directions. She was aggressive on her own mission. Twice,we took tea-breaks at shacks during the 7 hours trek. I watched pilgrims looking dreamy through the mist plodding along the steep trek path, wearing colorful raincoats. Both times,We chose a spot that has the River Lakshman Ganga running close to the shacks. The effect of the gurgling river has a soothing effect. The marvelous feeling of sipping tea in such surroundings was something that I can't experience even in 5-star surroundings.

Ghangaria was still miles away but we knew that we have crossed the half way mark. We crossed fellow travelers on their way back. On mules they pushed their way through, hanging precariously on the edge of the saddle. Tired as I was, still happy to be on my foot and not on an animal that has a mind of its own.

Valley Of Flowers-Paradise On Earth--

The Approach To The Paradise

Eternity Begins Here

“In my mountain wandering I have not seen
a more beautiful valley than this…
this valley of peace and perfect beauty
where the human spirit may find repose.”
- Frank Smythe

Eternity begins here... in the Valley of Flowers. A land of endless meadows, with insurmountable snowcapped peaks bearing icy glaciers that burst into streams, and a background of birdsong. Flowers carpet the entire valley and the leaves form a porous umbrella. The upper Bhyundar Valley earned international recognition after being explored by Frank Smythe, as part of the Kamet Expedition in 1931, and then in 1937 when he made a herbarium collection. Frank Smythe, in his description of this valley said, "Others will visit it, analyse it and probe it, but whatever their opinions, to me it will remain a Valley of Flowers, a valley of peace and perfect beauty where the human spirit may find repose."

Delhi – Haridwar – Rishikesh – Devprayag – Srinagar – Rudraprayag – Karnaprayag – Nandprayag – Chamoli – Pipalkoti – Joshimath – Auli – Govindghat – Ghangaria –

Valley of Flowers.

Dev Prayag-Confluence of Alaknanda and the Bhagirathi,

Rudra Prayag-confluence of rivers Alaknanda and Mandakini.

After reaching Rishikesh we started our journey towards Chamoli by our hired car.A long journey of almost 6 hours via Dev Prayag and Srinagar to Rudra Prayag.We had an overnight stay@ Rudra Prayag @ GMVN run resort.The next day we started our journey,early in the morning from Rudra Prayag through scenic Himalayan landscape through Karna Prayag -situated at the confluence of the Alaknanda and Pindar rivers and Nand Prayag-Confluence of Alaknanda adn Nandakini Rivers.

KarnaPrayag-Confluence of Alaknanda(r) and Pindar(bottom)

Nand Prayag-confluence of Alaknanda and Nandakini

Tributaries of Ganga give company along most of the journey.After reaching Chamoli we had a nice lunch and started further to Joshi Math.

Road we followed from Chamoli to Joshi Math

We faced a land slide on the way from Chamoli to Joshi Math and got stuck up mid way for nearly 4 hours.

Land Slide on the way from Chamoli to Joshi Math

After reaching to Joshi Math we decided to have an overnight stay because of the land slide issue.In the early morning we started for Govind Ghat,which is on an hour's journey from Joshi Math.While travelling from Joshimath to the Valley of Flowers, you will find the main road that goes to Badrinath. Almost in the midway of this main road a minor road branches off to Gobindghat considered to be the starting point of the Valley. Once you have reached so far a trek of another 14 km along steep, narrow yet well defined mountain track will take you to base camp at Ghangaria, a small settlement from where the Valley is just about 3km away. This journey from Gobindghat to Ghangaria can be travelled between 4 to 8 hours, off course this depends on your level of fitness!

Govind Ghat

The trek Route from Govind Ghat to Ghangria

Pulna is the first village on the way up. Another nine km trek, punctuated with waterfalls, wild flowers, forests and beautiful landscapes, takes one past Bhyundar — a small migratory village surrounded by dense moist temperate forest — and then a steep ascent to Govind Dham, just three kms from the valley that is known in Indian mythology as the ‘garden of Indra'

There is nothing greater then watching kids in joy and happiness

Tso Moriri - A Blue Pearl In Highland

High Altitude Tso Moriri

Changthang is a vast high altitude plateau situated in the north-east of the region, bordering Tibet. The altitude varies between 14 to 15000 feet. It is the home of Changpa nomad tribes, a pastoral community who eke out living from their flock of pashmina goats and sheep. Temperature during winter falls below - 50 degrees C. It is a desolate wilderness, a haven of tranquility. No soul is seen for miles and miles. Occasionally tents of the nomads and their herd only are met with in these astounding landscapes.

In such absolute wilderness and an ocean of silence, at an altitude of 4572 m, 240 km from Leh lies a serene sapphire-blue lake, Tso Moriri, alive with variety of water birds during summer months. The region has many hot water springs and.abundance of wildlife enjoying their undisturbed habitat. There are three different routes to reach the plateau and Tso Moriri. Route that follows upstream of Indus River is the easiest, shortest and without any high altitude pass. We follow this route. It is a lonely and long way to the Lake.

On a beautiful tuesday morning,cool and pleasant with clear blue sky, we were all set for the night out and camping in the farthest land in Ladakh.On Leh-Manali highway, past Karoo we reached Upashi. Here we left the Manali highway and continue along picturesque Indus valley,past Himya and Kere we reached hot water spring at Chumathank on the bank of Indus.Steaming hot water oozes out at several places from the spring. From one of the locations it is piped to the bathrooms for bathing. The water of the spring has therapeutic value.

After a drive of 5 km we left Indus valley, crossed Indus River and turned east. We now followed a small singing brook passing through a narrow valley at times widening but mostly narrow with bare rocky hills staring from above.There was rich green vegetation on the valley floor and around villages. The rose-bush - the omnipresent flowering plant of Ladakh,was in bloom and showed its presence everywhere; in sheltered pockets and in bare rocks devoid of soil and the air was filled with their pleasant aroma.

The valley opened up at Kiari, became broad for some distance then closed into a narrow terrain. We reach a picturesque spot of Namshang on the edge of a stream carpeted with green grass on which stood a small parachute tent restaurant, providing snacks and hot cup of tea. This was a lone shop in a lonely place.Few pasmina sheep wee grazing nearby in a green patch.we were in Changthang Plateau, the high altitude bald pastures between 14 to 15000 feet elevation. This was an expansive empty space in the tranquil wilderness, where wild animals move about freely with the time and space entirely to themselves or to the animals of the nomadic herders.

We resumed our journey on the dirt road and after a short drive suddenly we saw a vast beautiful lake with clear blue waters surrounded by hills. The pretty lake dominated the landscape in which brahmini ducks and geese were wading in the shallow waters.

A small village Korzok with its hilltop monastery is the only habitation in the area. We walked along the periphery of the lake beyond Korzok Village to watch the amber-pink glow of the dying day. The sun was about to set. The long rays of setting sun turned the lake shimmer with golden hue. The low hills in the surround got lit up with faint glow. It was a beautiful end of the day. Soon after night felt and it was all quiet.

We settled for the tent colony called the Nomadic Life Camp (Tsomo riri), Korzok for our night sojourn. The double flapped, double bed tents with comfortable mattresses and comforters tents look brand new and were lined in two rows. It is a neat campus with hygienic toilets with flowing water taps and flushes. A water channel passes in between two rows of tents which makes the site more romantic. It is a nice tent colony with friendly and hospitable owner and workers. The food served was rich and tasty; organic as is claimed by the owner.

It was glorious to be out here far away from home at an altitude of 14500 ft on the bank of Tso Moriri to spend the night in the Korzok village of Changthang plateau.

It was a long and dreary night; extremely cold; temperature falling below zero degree.

It was an unforgettable experience. And I can not thank god enough for this great experience. I was amazed how the Changpa herdmen live in these high altitude cold and absolute wilderness and love it! I believe they have Angels for company and are in commune with God all the time. I feel that here the earth is very close to heaven and divide is so thin that you can feel His presence and hear Him talk to you.