Satopanth Tal (Lake):..... Route to Heaven.....From Mana To Satopanth...The Vivacious Path..

                            Journey on the way of Pandavas
DAY 3....

We Started our final journey from Chakrateerth to Satopanth Tal(Lake).Clouds removed from the sky and weather became so beautiful.Balakun was amazing @ Sun rise,stunning... was also very bright.Looking like a 24 karet Gold peak...We were so much tempted to have as much as possible photos of both Balakun and Chaukhamba...
 

Balakun Just After Sunrise....

When we walked from Chakratirtha to Satopant Tal,It was Ekadasi, when it is believed that Lord Narayana Himself bathes in these sacred waters. Climbing diagonally up a rocky sharply inclined wall face, it took us about an hour to reach the top of the first ridge. Climbing down the precipice-like slope was very dangerous. From here the entire region of sheer glacier was visible.

Surrounded by lofty snow peaks, Chakratirtha, a well shaped circular green meadow, around 2 kms in length and 1.5 kms in breath, was a relief amidst the harsh environment.

We watched crevasses in the valley. It was impossible to make out the way through the valley. Our able guide, Devendra Rana, along with his porters, worked a way down to the moraine or small rocks lying over old glacier. This work was done with an ice axe. The path was constructed diagonally by the wall of the ridge and required careful maneuvering. 
 

It took us about an hour to reach the top of this ridge.

Again we saw some footprints which some claimed are the rare snow leopard believed to be occasionally sighted in these regions.

Pug Marks Of A Snow Leopard...

From here till Satopanth Tal we had to walk over the unseen glacier. At some places the glaciers was visible as the layer of boulders had moved away due to avalanches. We followed the route by the markings previously laid down of rocks placed vertically one on top of the other, at various places over the glacier.
 

path was constructed diagonally by the wall of the ridge.

On our way to Satopanth lake we saw huge rock structures..Devendra showed us those structures and said it is called as Bhim Bar or Bhima's Gada...At Bhimbar, the rock pillar commemorates Bhima’s release from earthly life....

It Is called Bhim bar Or Bhima's Gada...

The Path On Which We Walked..

We moved up slowly and steadily, one by one, negotiating dangerous crevasses. At last we saw the welcome flag at the top of a ridge. Below the flag on the other side of the ridge is Satopanth Tal. By this time we were all exhausted. Scarcity of oxygen had slowed us. The last 1 km was much tougher, as we were moving through avalanche zone. 
 

Walking On Satopanth Glacier....Most dangerous Path...

Ultimately, one by one we came up at the bottom of the last ridge. Here the rocky soil was very slippery and the gradient of the ridge was also steep. Everyone kept calm and we succeeded in reaching the top of the ridge at 12 noon.On The way we saw an old lady walking towards Mana...We were utmost surprised to see an old lady walking alone on this path...For some time we were speechless...
 

An Old lady Alone Walking Towards Mana.

Walking On The Last Gradient Of The Ridge Was Also Steep.

Devendra is trying to have a short cut by crossing this small rivulet...

After three hours of hard trekking on the treacherous glacier we reached under the last ridge and could see the red flag flying on top of the ridge indicating the site of the lake. We simply dragged ourselves to the top.
 

Red flag flying on top of the ridge indicating the site of the lake

Here we had a magnificent view of the Lake: Satopanth Tal. It's a triangular shaped lake with each side about 1 Km. long. The crystal clear water had a greenish colour and all around the lake stands mighty Himalayan snow peaks. From left to right, they are Mt. Neelkanth (21638 feet), Mt. Satopanth (23,206 feet), Mt. Swargarohini (20507 feet), Mt. Chaukhamba I (23413 feet) and Mt. Balakun (20040 feet). 
 

clouded chaukhamba massif rising above satopant lake.As the name suggests Chaukhamba, means four pillars. The four peaks are situated at an average elevation of 7138 metres, 7088 metres, 6995 metres and 6854 metres respectively above mean sea level. .

The first thing that struck me squarely was the strange ethereal ambience of the lake. It had such calm and soothing effect; probably because it’s an achievement of hard labour or may be the legends, ultimately got me! But I had to admit, our suicidal efforts were amply rewarded. The perfectly triangle shaped lake at the base of the snow crested Chaukhamba I peak, surrounded by lofty mountains reflected an azure sky. A small green field in its eastern side, dotted with alpine flowers accentuates the harsh surrounding. As I feasted on the spellbinding scenery, for the first time I became aware of the complete lack of sound around it. It’s eerie! Except the sound of occasional avalanches that were coming down the Chaukhamba peak, as it is already mid-day and the snow on the peak has started to melt, coming down as huge avalanches, the silence was all encompassing. 
 

We ran into him on the bank of Satopanth Tal (14300 fts) - a small triangular, almost inaccessible, glacial lake in the hidden depths of the Himalayas. Indeed, it is the right place for a vow of silence. According to the Skanda Purana, this silence is guarded by Bramha, Vishnu & Maheshwar - the holy trinity who sit in meditation on the vertices of the triangular lake. No-one dares to break this silence.

As we came down at the bank of the lake we saw the reflection of Mt. Chaukhamba on the water. It was beautiful beyond expression. We offered worship, both silent personal prayers and puja to Lord Bramha, Vishnu & Maheshwar, breaking a coconut . Soon after the snowfall which began at 1:30 p.m. continued till late midnight.At Satopanth Tal there is a room which had been constructed by a pilgrim from the South. This room is still used by visiting sadhus and trekkers alike.

Sagas @ Satopanth Lake...

The sound of the avalanches – alike the sound of a thunder, only accentuates this all-embracing, all-pervading silences. The emerald green water of triangular lake mirrors the snow crested Chaukhamba I peak. The image has been repeatedly broken by the waves of the lake forming due to the pleasantly cold gentle breeze that wafted from the snow crested Chaukhamba peak. The broken image re-forms immediately only to be broken again.
 

In the morning darkness still enveloped us till quite suddenly the first rays of sunlight bathed the tip of Mt. Chaukhamba.

I was resting on the grassy bank of the lake when Devendra Singh showed me a path towards the Chaukhamba I peak and told me, that was the path traversed by the Pancha Pandavs on their last journey to the heaven. He said, even today, ascetics who want to leave this painful world to enter the other world of supreme bliss, often take that path never to return
.

Satopanth Tal. It's a triangular shaped lake with each side about 1 Km. long. The crystal clear water had a greenish colour and all around the lake stands mighty Himalayan snow peaks. As we came down at the bank of the lake we saw the reflection of Mt. Chaukhamba on the water. It was beautiful beyond expression.

From the bank of the lake, I could see a clear path like trail leading to the peak of Chaukhamba. But as the sun rose high, avalanches after avalanches started to roll down that path. It’s definitely a sure path to the other world; whether that path goes to heaven or hell that I am not very sure.

It's not an ice cream,Head of Chaukhamba Massiff @ Satopanth lake.

A rare dragon cloud on mount Chaukhamba.

The clearness of the lake-water was surprising. It’s crystal clear. Standing on its bank, I could see almost its bottom. Legends has it, whenever something falls in the water, small birds would come flying and pick it up from the water. Some small grey birds were hopping around me on the bank of the Satopanth Lake.
 

Satopanth (left 7075m) and Chandra Parbat (right 6739m). Eastern part of the Western Garwhal Himal on the Satopanth Lake Trek, Uttaranchal, India.

As the evening descended, my silent ascetic came and sat beside me. It seemed that he is in a mood to talk. Immediately, I started to fire my questions. Smilingly he took up a pen and started to write down his answers in my diary.

I asked, ‘why did he come to this god forsaken place?’

He simply replied, ‘to meditate’.

‘But that can be done in ones home.’

He said, ‘yes. But you know, milk comes out only from the nipples of the cow and not from its horn or hoop.’

Closer view of Swargarohini(Path to Heaven).A myth or belief is Yudhishthir,the jyeshtha pandav was taken to Heaven By GODs in a rath(chariot)from this path.there are said to be 7 steps built up by Ravana to conquer the Heaven.because of melting of the dangerous glaciers the steps aren't clearly visible,only ice is seen

We talked about god, religion, spirituality, laws of nature, almost on every thing under the sun except on his person. He refused to answer any personal query; not even from where he came from. He had magnificent clarity of though, deep insight, strong opinion – a bit religious may be, but nevertheless strong belief backed by logical argument. 
 

Swargarohini Base,Can you see the Stairs To Heven?Closer view of Swargarohini(Path to Heaven).A myth or belief is Yudhishthir,the jyeshtha pandav was taken to Heaven By GODs in a rath(chariot)from this path.there are said to be 7 steps built up by Ravana to conquer the Heaven.because of melting of the dangerous glaciers the steps aren't clearly visible,only ice is seen

At the end of it he asked me, ‘why did you come?’

I said, ‘to see and to experience this fantastic world of myth and reality; to see this breathtaking beauty.’

He said, ‘me too. But to see the mountain within the mountain; to see the tal

within the tal; to experience the world within this world of myth.’

Some small grey and blue birds were hopping around us.

The evening passed into a starry night, I have never seen so many stars in the night sky before and the night into a glorious dawn.

Our Tents near Chaukhamba and Balakun...

In the morning darkness still enveloped us till quite suddenly the first rays of sunlight bathed the tip of Mt. Chaukhamba. Then started the fantastic colour changes on the snow. Initially pink, the colurs turned to shades of vermillion, red, orange, ochre and yellow until the sunlight shed its radiance on the entire region.

Mt.Chaukambha .. next to swargarohini.. scores have lost their lives trying to ascend this peak. Had more than 5 avalanches in one night.

Every one of us stood still in awe the half hour and more that nature revealed its finest hour of morning glory. We stayed at Satopanth Tal till 9 a.m. before we began our return trek to Badrinath via Mana.
 

Chaukhamba Masiff rising above Satopanth Lake.Reflection of Choukhamba III in Satopanth Taal's water

It was time to depart from this world of splendor and legend. As we clambered up the ridge, our silent ascetic stood on the bank of lake biding us farewell. I turned back to have a last look. I, certainly, will not be coming again. Seeing me turn back, he waived. I felt his gaze on me — full of compassion and tolerance, silently caressing me like the soft touch of a caring mother. Again something wailed inside me, and again I felt like crying aloud.

We did not know anything about him. Mortals like us are not comfortable with unanswered queries and unexplained phenomena. There were so many unanswered questions– thousands of it that were never going to be answered, smothered by the omnipotent silence. Perhaps he was right to take the vow of silence. This is certainly the right place for taking such a vow.

It is said, Bramha-Bishnu-Maheswar – the holiest of the Gods, the Holy Trinity, are in perpetual meditation on the three vertices of the triangular shaped Satopanth Tal (Lake). That’s why its ambience is so ethereal. Nobody dares to break the all-pervading cloak of silence around here.


                                                             ||शुभम भवतु ||

Satopanth Tal (Lake):..... Route to Heaven.....From Mana To Satopanth...The Vivacious Path.

.  ........ Journey on the way of Pandavas .........

DAY......2

The Satopanth Lake, 25 kms from Badrinath, could be reached after a difficult trek of two-day with night rest at Lakshmiban and Chakratirtha. Caves in those stopovers are used as the night shelter. Around Badrinath every place is steeped in legends so are Lakshmi Van and Chakratirtha. It is said that Goddess Lakshmi ( goddess of wealth)and her husband Narayan ( the preserver) meditated in Lakshmiban and Chakratirtha respectively and while meditating Narayan kept his famous Sudarshan Chraka on the valley which depressed by the weight of that Chakra to form a beautiful round shaped meadow surrounded by lofty mountains.

Flora @ Chamtoli BUgyal...

It was still dark, around 5 in the morning, when I woke up. As I fell asleep around 8 in the night, an early rise was obvious. Even dog-tired souls just cannot sleep more than 9 hours. As I looked with some trepidation towards the dangerous trail that lay ahead that we have to traverse, the first few sunrays touched the snow crested peaks of Himalayas and the peaks erupted into a blaze. Stunned, I devour the sight — a prodigious fire on snow peaks. All of yesterdays’ hassles and hardships have turned into a beautiful gift.

Sun Rays Kissing The Himalayan Peaks @ Dawn...

Himalaya takes a lot but gives back plenty; one could not hold it in ones palm, it always overflows. These blessed mountains were so compactly filled with God's beauty of Sunshine....

Sun rays Kissing The Himalayan Peaks @ Dawn..

I felt Nature is the most thrifty thing in the world; she never wastes anything;she undergoes change, but there's no annihilation - the essence remains.The first act of awe,I was strucked with the beauty or wonder of Nature, was the first spiritual experience."

Fire Ablaze On The Himalayan peaks...

The most sad part of the trek. Prasad has to return back to Badrinath. Previous night he had severe breathing problem and his pulse was dropped to 60. He got fever also. In the morning we made the decision and he returned back and Me,Vishram,Sanjay,Vish,Ana ,Sunil stayed there to proceed further. Everybody was crying at that time.Our guides went with him to guide him up to the Vasudhara trail and after that he was about l return back and start for Chakrateerth.

Prasad and Devendra Rana Back To Vasudhara Falls..

This day was expected to be a hard day as we planned to cover the additional distance of the previous day's shortfall to reach Chakratirtha in the evening, as scheduled. As the valley is inside towering mountain walls, we had to wait for the sun to dry our tents. At nine a.m. Devendra came back and we walked along trackless paths and over large boulders.

This is path towards Banglung glacier....Boulders and Glaciers..

Clambering up the loose moraine, going two steps forward and sliding one step down, with a few water falls and snow peaks giving company; it is laborious and event less except a few land slides and rock falls that nearly killed us. But by that time, such happenings were ‘all in a days’ work’!

Pathless journey...

While approaching Lakshmi Van, just opposite the Banglung Glacier snout point at Alkapuri ,On the way Devendra Sing showed us a valley, high up on the mountain and said, “ O dekhiye Alakapuri”( See there is Alakapuri)”! Alakapuri, the abode of Kuber, the God of wealth, was immortalized by Kalidas – the great ancient poet, in his book of verse “Meghdutam..

The Alaknanda rises at the confluence and feet of the Satopanth and Bhagirath Kharak glaciers in Uttarakhand.opposite the snout point of Banglung Glacier..

Alaknanda Becomes Broad Here...On The left Bank...The Trees Are Laxmi Van...

At Lakshmi Van we saw Bhuj Plants that grow in the Himalayan region at altitudes over 10000 feet. In ancient days, the leaves of the bark of these plants were used for manuscripts.it is here Sahdev breathed his last..

Laxmi Van...Lakshmi-van. This is an amazing spot, believed to the place where goddess Lakshmi is supposed to have meditated.contains Bhurj Patra trees..

At Bandhar we got the first view of the Bhagirathi Kharak Glacier which emerges from Mt. Bhagirathi I, II & III and continues to meet the Banglung Glacier at Alkapuri. Mt. Bhagirathi I (22488 feet), II (21359 feet) & III (21169 feet) were visible from here. From Bandhar upto Sahashradhara the path was entirely over boulders strewn over a narrow ridge.

(L to R) Bhagirathi II,III and I.Bhagirathi are the group of three high peaks namely Bhagirathi - I,II,III with the height of 6856,6512,6454 in garhwal himalayas.

Taking rest in between hopping over the bolders.That was a powerful stream we crossed.At Bandhar Nakul was released from his earthly life.

The Glacier Zone Begins.At Bandhar we got the first view of the Bhagirathi Kharak Glacier which emerges from Mt. Bhagirathi I, II & III and continues to meet the Banglung Glacier at Alkapuri.

By the time we reached Sahashradhara at 2:30 pm, the weather was rapidly deteriorating, as it is wont to do in the late afternoons. We decided to pitch our tents at the bank of a narrow stream. As it was not a proper camping site, the wind at this altitude of some 14,000 feet was harsh and biting cold. Most members were feeling the ill-affects of high altitude. The west face of Mt. Neelkanth (21638 feet) was visible from here. From Badrinath we can view the East face.

Beautiful cloud formation from Neelkanth.

At Sahastradhara lots of streams were coming down and those were very powerful.Eventually, on the verge of collapse, we reached our destination. As we collapsed on the last ridge – the valley laying under us,Ana, my companion uttered a full sentence of the day, she was too busy to save his life. She said wearily, “Well, we are saved

Sahastradhara falls,15 kms from Mana.From Bandhar upto Sahashradhara the path was entirely over boulders strewn over a narrow ridge.

Icy winds blew through the night and it was biting cold. As is often so at higher altitudes, we could not sleep properly. We awoke to the thick layer of fresh snow on the narrow stream beside which we pitched our tents. There were footprints which some claimed are the rare snow leopard believed to be occasionally sighted in these regions

Sahastradhara falls,15 kms from Mana.From Bandhar upto Sahashradhara the path was entirely over boulders strewn over a narrow ridge.

It was a clear morning and we were mesmerized by the spell-binding views of the snow capped peaks of Mt. Neelkanth (21638 feet), Mt. Chaukhamba (23413 feet) and Mt. Balakun (20040 feet). As this place was behind Mt. Neelkanth (21638 feet) in the east, we had the same problem of not getting sun rays early in the morning. We also waited for the chilled wind to stop.At last,We started at 9 a.m.,climbing long distances over boulders, short of breath and stamina, keenly aware of the scarcity of oxygen in the air.We took 1.5 hours to cross 2 km. The most dangerous part I encountered during the trek.

We decided to cross the region over this knife ridge and that was a terrible decision.One side of this ridge(R) is the glacier zone and to the left is the valley...

We reached Chakratirtha at about 12 noon to snack on our supply of dry foods, hoping to continue upto Satopanth Tal, but some members reached after 1 p.m., so we decided to camp at Chakratirtha. The valley at 15,000 feet has a large grassland and we basked in the afternoon sun, here.

camp at Chakratirtha.here the great Yogi,Nar and Great Warrior breathed his last...

Surrounded by lofty snow peaks, Chakratirtha, a well shaped circular green meadow, around 2 kms in length and 1.5 kms in breath, was a relief amidst the harsh environment. A small rivulet of about three feet wide divided the meadow in two halves. We witnessed terrifying avalanches off Mt. Satopanth (23206 feet) & Mt. Parvati and heard the gigantic sounds of glaciers breaking. Quite suddenly the sun vanished and it was entirely white, far in the distance. The snowfall which started at about 3 p.m. did not last long.

Sunset on Balakun.. Balakun Peak is located at the distance of 16 km from Badrinath. Balakun is situated north west to Badrinath. Balakun is situated between Bhagirathi Kharak glacier and Satopanth glacier.The peak is situated north east of Nilkanth peak. The Alaknanda river originates from below this peak by the melting of these two glaciers at an altitude of 3641 mts. The two glaciers rise from the eastern slopes of Chaukhamba (7140 mts) peak and wrapped around the Balakun peak..

At Chakrateertha, The Great yogi and The Great Warrior Arjun Breathed his last..At Chakrateerth only it is said that Arjun did penance for Lord Shiva before the Mahabharat war to have the great Pashupatastra...

We witnessed terrifying avalanches off Mt. Satopanth (23206 feet) & Mt. Parvati and heard the gigantic sounds of glaciers breaking. Quite suddenly the sun vanished and it was entirely white, far in the distance. The snowfall which started at about 3 p.m. did not last long. It is mount satopanth at sunset.

Next day morning clouds removed from the sky and weather became so beautiful.Balakun was bright,Parvati peak was also visible.

Stunning Balakun(20040 feet)-After sunrise,Balakun.

Parvati Peak visible

We were now about to start our last climb towards the holy Satopanth Lake surrounded by lofty mountain from .Chakratirtha to Satopant Tal. It was Ekadasi, when it is believed that Lord Narayana Himself bathes in these sacred waters.An unknown power was dragging us towards the holy lake and we were walking in solitude,silence as no body wanted to ruin the Divine silence created by Nature.....We Walked Towards That Unseen,Divine Power.

In the morning darkness still enveloped us till quite suddenly the first rays of sunlight bathed the tip of Mt. Chaukhamba. Then started the fantastic colour changes on the snow. Initially pink, the colurs turned to shades of vermillion, red, orange, ochre and yellow until the sunlight shed its radiance on the entire region.

Satopanth Tal(Lake): Route to Heaven.......In Badrinath And Mana...Last Village On Indo Tibet Border.

               .........Journey on the way of Pandavas......

According to Hindu mythology, Satopanth Tal is on the route taken by the Panch Pandavas on their Swarga Yatra. At various places their name remains as a memorial of this sacred journey. At the starting point at Mana, 3 km away from Badrinath, is the natural rock bridge, Bhima Pul. Here, Bhima is believed to have made the bridge over the river Saraswati so Draupadi could cross. At Lakshmi Ban, Draupadi is believed to have breathed her last. In the austere barren landscape at an altitude of 12600 feet, strewn with huge boulders, bhuj plants grow in the small patch of Lakshmi Ban. At Bandhar, it is said that Yudhishthir's thirst was quenched by the baan or arrow shot by Arjun which caused a stream of water to gush forth from the very Earth. At Bhimbar, the rock pillar commemorates Bhima's release from earthly life. At Chakratirtha the great yogi and warrior, Arjun gave up his body. Ahead, only Yudhishthir with his dog, who was indeed Dharma Raja himself, went in his mortal form, negotiating dangerous glaciers and hidden crevasses. At Satopanth Tal, the celestial rath or vehicle received him.

Heavy Snow Fall On The Way To Badrinath...

Inspired by this ancient heritage and the lofty Himalayas, the playground of the Gods, we undertook this sacred yatra.We started off from valley Of Flowers towards Badrinath...The Final Dham Of Lord Badri Vishal from where we were going to start our sacred journey towards the Path To Heaven.On the way to Badrinath from Valley Of Flowers,we experienced a heavy snow fall all along the way till Badrinath and within Badrinath.To trek towards Swargarohini we were willing to visit Badrinath first as the route passes from badrinath..and Pandavas went on this path...

Badrinath Town All Covered By Snow...Chilling.

We reached Badrinath on 4th September 2000,in the evening and as per our programme halted in Balanand Ashram...We were experiencing an ice fall never seen before,like a dream.It was maximum in last 5 years as per the local people.all over Badrinath.

Badrinath Town All Covered By Snow...Chilling.

Located only a few kilometers from the Indo-China (Tibet) border Badrinath stands first in the pilgrimage programs as it bears the highest degree of supreme faith and dedication to god. According to the Skanda Purana: "There are several sacred shrines in heaven, on earth, and in hell; but there is no shrine like Badrinath". The area around Badrinath was celebrated in Padma Purana as abounding in spiritual treasures. In the Hindu mythology, the region of the Himalayas is land of meditation "Uttra-Khand", in which the holly abode of Shri Badrinathji has been, situated in the extreme north of India at the confluence of river Rishi Ganga and River Alaknanda at a height of 3110m above sea level. A great religious importance has been attached to Badrinath Pauri which was once surrounded by wild berries or 'Badri' and so it was named ‘Badrivan’. This land has been worshipped by saints and sages as it has been the abode of yogis and great hermits. Badrinath has also been eulogized as Bhu Vaikuntha or earthly abode of Lord Vishnu.Many religious scholars such as Ramanujacharya, Madhawacharya and Vedanta Desika visited Badrinath and wrote sacred texts, such as commentaries on Brahma Sutras and other Upanishads.

Lord Badrinath Temple Under Snow Cover..

After refreshing we went to Seek the blessings of Lord Badrinath...Badri Vishal,some say.Facing the temple at the bank of Alaknanda river is a hot water spring known as ‘Tapt Kund’. A bath in this spring is very refreshing. a separate tank is available for women. the temple opens every year in the month of April-May and closes during the winter around the third week of November. It is believed that worshipping at this shrine is a means of liberating the soul from the bound of transmigration.

Gate Of Shri Balanand Ashram..Studded With Snow.

The colourful and distinctive façade of the temple, known as Singhdwar, is crafted painstakingly. The present structure of the temple is a contribution of the Kings of Garhwal, it is said. It has three sections – garbh griha (sanctum sanctorum), the Darshan Mandap, and Sabha Mandap. In the sanctum is placed the image of Lord Vishnu as Badri Narayan (also called Badri Vishal) under a canopy covered with a sheet of gold presented by the Queen Ahilyabai.

Badrinath temple and the Alaknanda river flowing besides it, taken very early in the morning. Just look at the way the temple is glowing among all the other structures. Beneath the temple, where you can see the smoke, is the hot water spring where the devotees take a dip before entering the temple.

The image of Lord Vishnu in the temple is claimed to have miraculously emerged full-formed from a Shaligram, a particular type of black stone containing fossilised ammonite, which is itself considered a "self-manifested" form of Vishnu. It represents Lord Vishnu in meditation. The Temple compound also has idols of Garud (the vehicle of Lord Narayan) and Goddess Mahalaxmi as well as of Adi Shankracharya, Swami Desikan and Shri Ramanujan.

Badrinath temple, sometimes called Badrinarayan temple, is situated along the Alaknanda river.

The temple is open for six months of the year – from April-May to October-November, but its day of opening is determined on the day of the Basant Panchami (in February-March), in accordance with astrological configurations. Pujas are held during the opening and the closing of the temple.After consultations with pandits and astrologers, between them and the former Maharaja of Tehri Garhwal, and a brief ceremony at Narendra Nagar on the day of Basant Panchami, a suitable day is fixed between the last week of April and the first week of May for opening the temple. On this day, the sesame oil prepared in Narendra Nagar, is traditionally handed over to a representative of the Temple Committee, for balming the idol of Lord Vishnu right through the year. The first ceremony on opening is the darshan of the Akhand Jyoti (eternal flame) in an ancient lamp which has remained lit all through the year, even when the temple closed for the winter. The Puja is performed in the darshan mandap which can only accommodate a few people while the devotees stand in the outer or sabha mandap for the holy glimpse while the puja is being performed after a dip in the holy Taptakund.

Badrinath temple, sometimes called Badrinarayan temple, is situated along the Alaknanda river

The chilly winds and near zero temperatures at Badrinath, combined with the fact that we would begin early on the trek the following day, called for an early night. We woke up to our first view of Mt. Neelkanth (21638 feet) between Nar and Narayan Parbat from our window in the Hotel. The first lights of the sun glowed on the tip of the peak and we watched in awed as the colours changed on the mighty snow peak.

Neelkanth Peak @ Early Rays Of Sun Rise..
Popularly known as 'Garhwal Queen', Neelkanth is a pyramidal snowy peak towering above Badrinath.

I got speechless to look at that mesmerizing, amazing, gorgeous peak. The Neelkanth peak which was not visible the other day because of cloud cover was shining like an orangeish tube light when the first ray of sun fell on it. Popularly known as 'Garhwal Queen', Neelkanth is a pyramidal snowy peak towering above Badrinath

Neelkanth Peak After Sun Rise..
Popularly known as 'Garhwal Queen', Neelkanth is a pyramidal snowy peak towering above Badrinath.

I got so much captured by the beauty that I didn’t even blink my eyes and kept standing over there until I got out of that effect of hypnotization.At the back side of Badrinath temple a valley open to Neelkanth peak, which embodies all the divinity of this divine land..We started towards Mana..Ancient .Manibhadra Ashram

The quaint little village of ‘Mana’ (माणा) lies three kilometers north of Badrinath (बद्रीनाथ). It has not compromised with time. It has the distinction of being the last Indian village on the Indo-Tibet border. The villagers of Mana are semi-nomads who fled Tibet during the Chinese occupation. Come winter they move down to Gopeshwar (गोपेश्वर), literally lock stock and barrel, with even the little local school. They are ineluctably linked with the rich religious heritage of Badrinath. On the occasion of the closing ceremony of the shrine every year at the onset of winter, the villagers of Mana offer a wooleen shawl woven by the girls of the village for the deity.

Entrance to Mana....An Ancient village...Manibhadra Ashram in puranas...

Slate roofed little houses in that village looked beautiful and some people I saw were engaged in agro horticulture activities. I have seen people very inspirationally hard working in the Himalayan region and people in Mana were no different. I came to know Mana is also a pass, in the times Tibet was in existence this place was a route for traders to carry their stuffs to Tibet and stuffs from Tibet.Prior to Indo-China war of 1962 Mana was a prosperous place. But After the war, now when there is no Tibet and only China, people of Mana have lost their major source of income and their occupation. They only earn these days by being a guide, poter or by selling home made stuffs. It is sad but a war not only kills people but also kills culture, society and occupation.

Down the valley, in the center, you can see the town of Badrinath.

In a narrow cemented path I was walking and enjoying the wonderful village blessed with so much natural beauty. On one side flawless river Alaknanda enchanting as always flows, and the village was surrounded by beautiful gorgeous snowy mountains. I was having a time of life.

On the right side of the river

Great Alaknanda...Fierce..

I could see from the boards that I was heading towards Vyas Gufa. It is believed that Rishi Vyas while residing in a cave created Mahabharata and the cave now is known as Vyas Gufa

The Map Itself...

I was astonished to look at that cave from outside; the hill was in a structure of a massive book, even the pages were visible. The hill is called Vyas pothi on the accounts of river Saraswati and it is believed to be the book of Mahabharata.I was witnessing the place which has so much importance in mythology and believe me I never believed the place referred in the mythology exists for real.

Vyas Gufa (Cave)..Mana was known as ‘Manibhadra Ashrama’ (मणिभद्र आश्रम), which claims to have witnessed the composition of the epic ‘Mahabharata’. It is belived the Vyas Muni composed the epic at Mana, He lived in a cave, known as ‘Vyas Gufa’ , other caves are ‘Ganesh Gufa’ and ‘Muchkunda Gufa.

I went inside the cave and saw an idol of rishi Vyas installed .Vyasa wrote the 18 Puranas and Mahabharata. He also propagated the Four Vedas from here, through his disciples. He spread Vedas through his disciples like Jaimini, Sumantu, Pyla, etc. Vyasa means segregating or dividing. He segregated Vedas into Rig, Yajur, Sama and Atharvana and so he is Veda Vyasa. In spite of all such great works, he had dissatisfaction. Vedas, though useful, could not be understood by all. So, he wrote Mahabharata, which is claimed as the Fifth Veda [Panchamo Veda:]. Brahma's son was sage Vasishta, whose son was Shakti, whose son was Parashara, whose son was Vyasa. His son was sage Suka Brahmam. What a great family with lineage! He wrote Mahabharata, which has 125,000 slokas, in 18 Parvas! What is not in Mahabharatha would not be anywhere! Such a great epic was written from this cave! From outside this cave appears as an assembly of palm leaves manuscripts! This is called Vyasa pothi.

Inside Vyas Gufa...his place was known as ‘Manibhadra Ashrama’ (मणिभद्र आश्रम), which claims to have witnessed the composition of the epic ‘Mahabharata’. It is belived the Vyas Muni composed the epic at Mana, He lived in a cave, known as ‘Vyas Gufa’ , other caves are ‘Ganesh Gufa’ and ‘Muchkunda Gufa.

Ganesh Gufa is where Shri Ganesh Bhagwan used to sit while Vyas Rishi was dictating the great epic Mahabharat to Shri Ganesh Bhagwan.

Ganesh Gufa(Cave)...It is believed that in that cave Lord Ganesha lived and helped Rishi Vyas to create Mahabharata

So naturally Ganesh Gufa is below Vyas Gufa. It is said that Vyas Rishi wanted someone to write so fast that he would not need to repeat a single word, so he asked Ganesh for the job. With this condition of Vyas Rishi’s Ganesh put his own condition that he would do the job only if the Mahabharat is dictated in one go. That means Mahabharat was dictated in one go and without being repeated a single word to Shri Ganesh.

Inside Ganesh Gufa...Lord Ganesh

While Vyasa was writing Mahabharata, river Saraswati was flowing with great noise. Since that was disturbing him, Vyasa requested Saraswati to flow calmly. She refused, which angered Vyasa and diverted Saraswati's course. We can see Saraswati river upto a point and then she disappears and joins Alakananda at Keasava prayag. Then the river is called Alakananda only. Then she flows as Antarvahini [hidden river] and mixes with Ganga and Yamuna at Prayag or Allahabad. Because of Veda Vyasa's ire, Saraswati river flows as hidden river. Vyasa completed Mahabharata and made available for public. But, instead of being proud of having authored a great epic, Vyasa was in agony. That time sage Narada came.He inquired about worry of Vyasa. Vyasa replied that though he completed the epic, he had a dissatisfied mind. Narada answered that other than the Lord, any other topic would not satisfy the mind. So, he advised Vyasa to compose a work only on the Lord and Dharma. Vyasa did accordingly and Srimad Bhagavatam was born.

Keshav Prayag. River Saraswati emerges from a glacier about 3km for Mana and the confluence of river Alaknanda and river Saraswati is known as Keshav Prayag.

After worshiping Lord Ganesh and Veda Vyasa in their respective caves, we have now come to a nearby rock. This is called Bhim pul or Bhima Shila.According to legend Pancha Pandavas and Draupati, in the end, started their journey to heaven. After crossing Vyasa cave, they found Saraswati river was flowing aggressively. Crossing that river was the way to Swarga or heaven.

Bhim Shila or Bhim pul’...a large piece of rock and it is said that Bhim of the Mahabharata dropped it in river to enable Draupadi to cross the river during there yatra meant for salvation.

Draupati being a woman was finding it difficult to cross. Bhima requested Saraswati to narrow down a bit for Draupadi to cross over, but she refused to oblige. The enraged Bhima kicked at a rock and fell it across the river for Draupadi to cross. It goes by the name of ‘Bhim pul’, the river Saraswati rises from near the Mana pass on the border to emerge here only to disappear to emerge finally to merge with Ganga an Yamuna at Allahabad.River Saraswati emerges from a glacier about 3km for Mana and the confluence of river Alaknanda and river Saraswati is known as Kesshav Prayag.

Keshav Prayag Captured from The Other Side...The Fierce Gorge Of Saraswati..

The sight of the huge mountain and the steep valley, and the rushing Saraswati river, all made us nervous! This bridge connects one mountain to another.And the ancient path lead towards vasudhara...the original patha of Pandavas To Swargarohini...the Fierce and gushing holy River Saraswati with her tremendous force and sound was making us to tremble..from here she falls down in a deep gorge to vanish and meet up with Alaknanda and flows all along with the name of Alaknanda till Alahabad...Prayag.The Scene was making us weak...and this was happening with every person standing there....

Keshav Prayag...Starting Point Of holy Saraswati...

To worship Saraswati...here is a small temple @ Keshav Prayag..To make her at peace...To worship her for not to be so fierce,forceful...To calm her...

Saraswati Temple @ Keshav Prayag...

Inside this small temple a small idol of Devi Saraswati has been placed.every visitor seeks the darshan and blessings of this Goddess Saraswati...After taking darshan of All places in Mana we returned to Badrinath for the remaining places to be visited and we were returning tomorrow here on this way only to begin towards Swarga Rohini...

Idol Of River Saraswati @ Keshav Prayag...

On The Way To Vishnu/Charan Paduka..

In Dwaparayug,according to Sri BhagwatPurana, Lord Sri Krishna at the time of his departure from this earth,sent his minister and friend Sri Uddhav, the only surviving yadav to proceed to Badrinath,then known as Vishala with his Charan Paduka and assured him that the very sight of Alakhnanda would wash off his all sins.

Way To Charan Paduka...

.Charan Paduka of Lord Vishnu...

According to the Skand,Sthal and Srimad Bhagavat puran ths place is known as Badrikasharam in Kaliyuga, the present age.Rishi Ved Vayas, also known as Bahdarayana lived here and compiled Vedas,wrote Bramha Sutra,Mahabharata and took the initiation of Srimada Bhagvat Purana from Saint Narad.According to the Sthal Purana, Lord Vishnu is worshiped at Badrinath by the human beings for the period when these mountains are free from snow and by Saint Narada when it snow heavily during winters.

Vishnu Paduka @ Badrinath.Charan Paduka, or footprints of Lord Vishnu.

Mata Murti Temple...

On the other side of Alakananda, we can see Mata Murti temple.The Lord Narayana is Omnipresent.. But when He took avatar as Sri Rama, Kausalya was His mother. Devaki was the mother of Sri Krishna. Similarly, there was a mother of Sri Narayana and Sri Nara, and there is a temple for her.The idol is of the woman, who gave birth to this world, Sri Nara and Sri Narayana! The idol is small. During the month of Avani, on Shukla paksha Dwadasi, Sri Badrinath arrives here to pay respects to His mother! This festival is celebrated annually, and the Lord is taken on a grand procession! It is celebrated as Sri Mata Murty mela and Badarikashram wears festival look! After a day's stay in this temple, the Lord returns to Badarikashram by evening. Usually, this festival is celebrated a few days before Sri Krishna Jayanti [Gokulashtami or Janmashtami].

Mata Murti Temple...

Tapt kund...

Down the steps from the temple, above the river bank are the thermal springs, their steam visibly from the opposite bank. It is a wonder that such hot water springs are found in such cold areas at all. The pilgrims take a bath here before visiting the temple. In fact, this bath is one pilgrimage that bears immediate fruit – instantly rejuvenating the traveller’s tired body.

Narad kund...Narad Kund is formed from a recess in the bed of the river, close to Taptakund. This is sheltered by a bare rock whose projecting angle breaks the force of the current and renders the place fit for bathing. It is said to be very deep and it is from here that the idol of Lord Vishnu was recovered first by Brahma and then by Adi Shankracharya. The hot water springs comes out from beneath the Garud Shila and falls into a tank. Darshan of Badrinath is always preceded by a holy dip in this kund. The water in this pool is very hot so it is good idea not to stay in it too long.

Tapt Kund...

Urvashi Mandir...

Badrivishal, the ashram of Nar and Narayan, where both performed penance and now, in the shape of mountains, guard the temple, was also the scene of their temptation. While they were in deep meditation, Lord Indra sent a group of celestial maidens or apsaras to distract them. Narayan tore his left thigh and out of the flesh, created several nymphs each more beautiful than the other. The most ravishing of all of them – Urvashi -- led the nymphs to Indra and shattered his pride near a small pond in the Charanpaduka, 2 kilometres from Badrivishal. The pond bears the name of Urvashi; and there is a temple on the outskirts of Bamni village dedicated to the lovely nymph. In the sanctum sanctorum, a celestial nymph sits on the left thigh of Narayan.

Urvashi Mandir...

Shesh Netra...

On the opposite bank of the Alaknanda, between two seasonal lakes, a boulder carries the impression of Shesh Nag, the legendary snake. This large boulder, located on the way to Mana village just outside the town, has two eyes which have been naturally created on in. They are said to belong to Shesh Nag, who, ever vigilant, protects the Badrinath Shrine.

Shesh Netra...

Hike to the foot of the mountain Nilkant, Badrinath, actually requires a special permit (according to locals). On the other hand, there were no posts and booths to check this Permita, and after 3 hours on foot rests on the dead-end wall of proper foot Nilkantha, mountains 6558 meters high (at least some reliable information a little more than 7000 meters). Nilkanth - the abode of Shiva and Siddha-sthala, or place of power. The word "Nilkantha" in Sanskrit means "Blue-" is an epithet of Shiva swallowed the poison halahala to save the Creation during the churning ocean of milk - a legendary history, standing at perhaps half of the legends of the origins of Hinduism.

Trekking to the foot of the mountain Neeikanth
(6558 meters, Neelkanth, "Blue-" Shiva)

Panch Dharas..
.
The Panch Dharas (five streams) which are part of the Badrinath site-seeing are Prahlad, Kurma, Bhrigu, Urvashi and Indira dhara. The most striking of these is the Indira dhara, about 1.5 kilometres north of the town Badripuri. Bhrigudhara flows past a number of caves. The one on the right of river Rishi Ganga, originally from the Neelkanth range is Urvashi dhara. Kurma dhara’s water is extremely cold whereas Prahlad dhara has lukewarm water, which glides majestically down the rocks of Narayan Parvat.

Panchshila
It seems there is great importance and sanctity attached to the figure panch (five) in Garhwal, and so one finds many places such as Panch Prayag (five confluences), Panch Kedar (five Kedars), Panch Badri (five Badris), etc. Similarly, in Badrinath, there are the panchshila (five rocks)

Panch Dharas..

Leela Dhongi....

Badrinath is the area that Lord Shiv originally chose for his tapasya. However, Lord Vishnu decided that he wanted to meditate here so he assumed the form of a little child and lay on a rock and cried. He refused to stop even when Parvati tried to console him. In the end, Lord Shiv could not stand the child’s wails and decided to shift to Kedarnath. The rock on which Lord Badrinath is said to have played this trick is called Leela Dhongi and is located on the way to Bamni village.

Leela Dhongi...

The Temple compound also has idols of Garud (the vehicle of Lord Narayan) and Goddess Mahalaxmi as well as of Adi Shankracharya, Swami Desikan and Shri Ramanujan.

Statues of Adi Shankracharya, Swami Desikan and Shri Ramanujan.

Bramha Kapal...

Legend has it that when, for some reason, Lord Shiv chopped off the head of Lord Brahma, the head stuck to the former’s hand and brahm-hatya (the curse of killing Brahma) befell him. Lord Shiv then went to all the pilgrim places but the curse did not go away. At last, when he came to Badrikashram, not only was he freed of Brahma’s head but was also relieved of the curse. Today, at the spot about 300 metres away towards the river’s source, is a rock known by the name Brahmkapal (Brahma’s head). Here, the pilgrims perform propitiating rites and rituals for their dead ancestors and offer pind daan.

Bramha Kapal...

On The way to Charan Paduka...Trek uphill.

Rishi ganga flow through a man made diversion ted to create a fall and electricity too.Trek up towards charan paduka area .

The beautifully lightened temple was looking fabulous and the river Alaknanda’s enchanting flowing sound was synchronizing with the sound of the bells and Mantras enchanted in the temple which gave a feeling of tranquility. One can feel the power of mantras orchestrated by bells and natures own music.The temple is managed by the Shri Badrinath Mandir Samiti, constituted in 1939 by the Badrinath Temple Act 16, 1939. The Head Pujari of the temple, a Namboodri Brahmin, is known as the Rawal, and is appointed jointly by the former Maharaja of Tehri Garhwal and the Temple Committee. He is the only person who is allowed to touch the idol of the deity. He is assisted by a naib Rawal, who is also a Namboodri Brahmin and the Rawal’s successor. Well versed in Sanskrit and puja rituals, the Rawal must also be celibate and loses his position if he gains a wife.

Badrinath Temple @ Its Full glow...

Near the mandap is located a headless statue of Ghantakarn, who is considered the dwarpal (guard) of the area. According to Harivansh Puran, Ghantakarn was a demon and an ardent devotee of Lord Shiv. In fact, he did not accept any other god, and was particularly opposed to Vishnu. He wore large bells in his ears so that he did not hear the name of Vishnu. After thousands of years of worshipping Shiv, the latter granted him a boon, but all that Ghantakarn wanted was mukti (release).

Inside The Mandapam...

Expressing his inability to fulfil his wish, Shiv said that only Narayan (Vishnu) could grant mukti. Ghantakarn then began worshipping Krishna, who was at Badrikashram at the time. Pleased with his worship, Krishna advised him to give up his violent ways, and thereafter Ghantakarn remained here as kshetrapal (the region’s protector). There are temples to Ghantakarn in many parts of Garhwal but it is only at Badrinath that he is worshipped as a kshetrapal.

Inside The Mandapam...

After entering the dharsan mandap I could look into the Garbha Griha where the beautiful Devine idol of lord Badrinath was placed under the canopy covered with gold sheets. Aarti was going on and I got totally mesmerized in that Divine atmosphere.



To the left of Maha Vishnu are Narayan and Nara. The Uddhav (Utsav or decorative idol of Lord Krishna’s closest friend) idol stands in front of the Lord flanked by silver images of Garud (Lord Vishnu’s vehicle) and Narad. Above is placed Krishna's Sudarshan Chakra also crafted in sliver.

Surprisingly taken...Is not allowed but because of swamiji.s permission...

Nobody was supposed to stand there for more than a minute to enable people in the queue to have dharsana. I got out of the temple and the aarti was still ringing in my ears then. From very childhood I have heard the aari but never felt the power in it as I felt it in the temple.We returned to our Ashram as we have to prepare for the long, fierce trek towards Satopanth...Swargarohini Trek..tomorrow onwards..

Shri Badrinathji the lord of Himalayas is being worshipped all the time by sheshnag the snake’s lord. Even the lord of lords, lord Shiva is always busy in your meditation. The God of creation, Brahma, and ancient holly book, Ved, have habitually been enchanting hymns in praise of Lord Badrinath.

Next morning after taking this beautiful photo of the Gadhwal Queen we set off towards Mana....Swarga Rohini...Path Towards Heaven... Not knowing What Will Happen On This Scary Path...We Will Succeed To Complete The Trek?...Or not...A Question Of Life And Death...But Courageously We Walked...And...

Neelkanth Peak After Sun Rise..
Popularly known as 'Garhwal Queen', Neelkanth is a pyramidal snowy peak towering above Badrinath.

शेष सुमिरन करत निशिदिन |

धरत ध्यान महेश्वरम |

श्री वेद ब्रह्मा करत स्तुती |

श्री बद्री नाथ विश्वंभरम |

||शुभम भवतु||