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Thursday, June 24, 2010

Satopanth Tal (Lake):..... Route to Heaven.....From Mana To Satopanth...The Vivacious Path...

.......... Journey on the way of Pandavas .........

DAY:1....

Finally On 6th September 2000 we were on our hazardous journey towards Satopanth Lake....Swargarohini....The Way Pandavas traveled....It was my dream to trek to the trail the Pandavas undertook to reach Heaven - a spiritual journey. it was the toughest trek of all - days and days on rocks/boulders/glaciers/ridges/moraines.....
 
Satopanth Tal. It's a triangular shaped lake with each side about 1 Km. long. The crystal clear water had a greenish colour and all around the lake stands mighty Himalayan snow peaks. From left to right, they are Mt. Neelkanth (21638 feet), Mt. Satopanth (23,206 feet), Mt. Swargarohini (20507 feet), Mt. Chaukhamba I (23413 feet) and Mt. Balakun (20040 feet). As we came down at the bank of the lake we saw the reflection of Mt. Chaukhamba on the water. It was beautiful beyond expression.


This was my dream destination from many years and was now thrilled to be on the way on my dream to reach my dream destination...though it was really toughest we gathered courage and strength to complete it..We reached @ Mana Again @ 8 a.m....Before we started ,we took tea in "India's last tea Shop" at Mana..At the end of mana each tourist stops to have tea at this last tea shop of India.chandra Sinh Badwal is running this tea shop from last 20 years and we can get many types of tea here...from common to herbal tea..

 

Last Tea Shop Of India...@ Mana...


I am giving here the description of this destination for those who have not read the first part of this path...Satopanth...Swargar
ohini(Stairs to Heaven)...

According to Hindu mythology, Satopanth Tal is on the route taken by the Panch Pandavas on their Swarga Yatra. At various places their name remains as a memorial of this sacred journey. At the starting point at Mana, 3 km away from Badrinath, is the natural rock bridge, Bhima Pul. Here, Bhima is believed to have made the bridge over the river Saraswati so Draupadi could cross. At Lakshmi Ban, Draupadi is believed to have breathed her last. In the austere barren landscape at an altitude of 12600 feet, strewn with huge boulders, bhuj plants grow in the small patch of Lakshmi Ban. At Bandhar, it is said that Yudhishthir's thirst was quenched by the baan or arrow shot by Arjun which caused a stream of water to gush forth from the very Earth. At Bhimbar, the rock pillar commemorates Bhima's release from earthly life. At Chakratirtha the great yogi and warrior, Arjun gave up his body. Ahead, only Yudhishthir with his dog, who was indeed Dharma Raja himself, went in his mortal form, negotiating dangerous glaciers and hidden crevasses. At Satopanth Tal, the celestial rath or vehicle received him.


With us were high altitude guide Devendra Rana of Joshimath, who has accompanied expeditions to various Himalayan summits in the Himalayas. The rest of the team, all from Joshimath included Dilawar Singh Rana, one of the most able porters. Surendra Singh Rawat was the oldest and most experienced porter. Harendra Singh Rawat was the youngest which was compensated by his enthusiasm and good cheer.


This trek generally takes 5 days. We scheduled an extra day staying overnight at Satopath. The trek begins at Mana, 10500 feet, 3 Km from Badrinath.

# Day 1: Mana to Chamtoli (12000 feet) 8 Km.
# Day 2: Chamtoli to Lakshmi Ban (12600 feet) 1 Km.
Lakshmi Ban to Bandhar (13000 feet) 2 Km.
Bandhar to Shahasra Dhara (14000 feet) 4 Km.
# Day 3: Sahasra Dhara to Chakratirtha (15000 feet) 5 Km.
# Day 4: Chakratirtha to Satopanth Tal (16000 feet) 5 Km.
# Day 5: Satopanth Tal to Bandhar (13000 feet) 14 Km.
# Day 6: Bandhar to Mana (10500 feet) 11 Km.

The Bridge On Alaknanda From Which We Started Our Journey...


Our first days trek was from Mana to Chamtoli. The pre-arranged guide and porters reported on time. We had planned on leaving at 8 a.m. but had to wait because of a new regulation for trekkers to Satopanth Tal. As this area is close to the Indo-China Border, we needed a permit from the DM"s office at Joshimath. Necessary permission is only issued after verification of Indian Citizenship on producing a valid Photo Identity Card. Our able guide cum High Altitude porter, Devendra Rana, who was familiar with the route also knew the officer-incharge at Mana ITBP (Indo-Tibet Border Police) check post. After considerable argument we were given permission on producing a written application stating that all responsibility for any mishaps on the Satopanth Tal route were squarely ours.


Mountain opposite the town which can be reached by crossing the river Alaknanda...


After crossing Alaknanda I took this image of sun rays which were protruding from where we came...


We finally started our trek at 11 a.m. Unlike the mythological route, we had to cross the river Alkananda at Mana by a rope bridge. We were walking along the right bank of the river till we reached a landslide zone. This area was at least half km and has to be covered without taking any rest in between. Every now and then rock pieces fell from the top on our left. We had to cross the area cautiously yet rapidly. On our right side the raging waters of the Alkananda flowed downstream. Thereafter, we had to climb a loose boulder wall of some 500 feet having a gradient of at least 75 degrees. This was a tiresome haul on the first day. 

 

The Land Slide Zone Towards Vasudhara Falls...

Vasudhara Falls were visible from distance.Vasudhara falls.....in memory of Ashta Vasus who Did A Penance Here... A few minutes walk on the Vasudhara trail will take you to a small temple, one dedicated to Draupadi or Shakthi (whose reincarnation was Draupadi). According to the story, this is the place where Draupadi fell. Like the Pandavas, we carried on towards our destination.We were watching the amazing mana Peak From Mana pass...

Duet Mana Peak Viewed From Mana Pass...


Northeast of Badrinath is another impressive cluster of mountain peaks. The mountains rise almost on the Indo-Tibetan border with Mana and Kamet as the principal peaks. Mana itself marks the eastern extremity of the Zanskar range. It lies between the pass of the same name and the Niti Pass.


There views are awesome as you walk towards Vasudhara falls.The Trail Towards Vasudhara...


There views are awesome as you walk towards Vasudhara falls. There were some bushes all along the otherwise barren landscape, with bright red and orange berries on them. Though the signboard said 5 kms to Vasudhara, we felt it was more than that.. probably it was just our legs complaining. This trek was relatively easy without any steep climbs. The falls was visible at a distance and we thought its just a hill away. But we had to walk across atleast another 4 hills and a stream before we could finally reach it.


The trail Surrounded By Mountain Peaks Embedded With Snow...


Vasudhara falls drops from a height of 125 meters, but due to the height the water falls down like a shower of droplets. It was really cold out there and only Jayan managed to take a shower. The rest of us sat there watching the falls and the mist covered valley below. The tranquility of the place was amazing, no wonder why all the yogis choose to go to the Himalayas to meditate.


Distant View of Vasudhara Falls...


A myth or belief is that the Ashtavasus did Tap for 1000 yrs here,and the holy water of this fall dont fall on head of a person who has done tremendous sins..The moment seemed to be freeze forever as we were completely immersed in the immense beauty of the nature..


Vasudhara Falls and Draupadi Temple...


At vasudhara falls Draupadi Breathed her last...At her memory a small temple is built here and dedicated to her as Shakti....An idol of Draupadi is worshipped in this temple...


An Idol Of Draupadi


Vasudhara Falls...A Rainbow...



Ahead, the path till Chamtoli Bugyal (Meadows or Mat Of Grass) was reasonable. Though we had planned on a night halt further on at Bandhar, the mornings delay saw us pitching tent at Chamtoli at 3 p.m. This is a beautiful green flat valley just opposite the Vasudhara Falls..Far away from vasudhara falls the glacier divider was visible. Satopanth glacier (left) and Vagirath Kharga glacier (right) made Alkapuri here.


Satopanth glacier (left) and Bhagirath Kharga glacier (right) made Alkapuri here.


We were on the way to Chamtoli Bugyal...but the path was risky as we had to cross Dhano glacier which ice flow was making us like ice skeletons...


Dhano Glacier...


Crossing Dhano Glacier was a thrilling experience as to walk on a glacier is a life and death situation...If a glacier starts melting or bursting there is no chance of survival...


Crossing Dhano Glacier...


We took a bit rest and started walking towards the beautiful Chamtolo Bugyal..Neelaknth came from clouds and was at its full glow...What a beauty it was...Also snow capped Mt.Kuber was visible from clouds...It was a divine beauty of the Himalayas that we were stunned to see the peaks and their glory..We almost forget to breath by this amazing scene and beauty of Nature...


Mount Kuber @ Sun Set...visible from Chamtoli Bugyal...


Snow capped mountains,Glaciers,rugged paths,fresh green meadow of Chamtoli bygyal,And a variety of flowers...We almost forgot our strain of steep climbs,crossing risky Dhano glacier.Our Porters started to pitch tents and our preparing for the dinner..


Neelkanth @ Sun Set...


At Chamtoli Bugyal we found so many varieties of beautiful flowers,lush green meadows of grass.i could not resist myself from taking photographs of these awesome beautiful macros.Till tents were pitched up and dinner being prepared we took as many as photographs we can.


Amazing Flora @ chamtoli Bugyal...


Amazing Flora @ chamtoli Bugyal...


Amazing Flora @ chamtoli Bugyal...


Amazing Flora @ chamtoli Bugyal...


The Place where Ved Vyas has said to Split the 4 Vedas...This rock represents the split vedas...


this is a photograph where Ved vyas has said to split the 4 vedas...the rock is been divided in 2 parts...it is said that one split of the rock represents Rigveda and yajurveda and the other split represents the atharva and Saam vedas.


Our tents...Engulfing Clouds and Vasudhara falls @ Far Distance..


The weather was deteriorating...The clouds were engulfing....the snow fall began...temperature began to fall below sub zero..Chilly winds started blowing...Sun light began to fade fast...and the Night started falling..We started becoming ice skeletons and the porters reminded us to safe guard us from the AMS(Altitude Mountain Sickness.)..it was only 7.30 in the evening but the darkness was coming closer so fast..We had Rice Khichadi,Maggi...made by the porters.


Moon rise Over Chamtoli Bugyal...


We had no other substitute other than sleeping early as we had to start early in the morning towards Bandhar...the next Pit Stop...our journey continued...

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